Watermelon Gazpacho with Jalapeno

Watermelon looms large over our summers...literally. It's cold, liquid, refreshing dirt candy and it sits upon a high throne along side other summer delights such as just picked, tender and bursting sweet corn, and melt-in-your-mouth stone fruit. And then there are tomatoes. Precious, ephemeral jewels that they are. I am guessing that at some point this summer you will have all the ingredients necessary to make this easy (nearly instant!) cold soup. Slurp it up as a light snack, serve with corn chips, plantain chips, or veggie chips, blend the jalapeno right in or sprinkle on top. It's sweet and spicy, you can't go wrong!

I have given the amounts for this recipe in weight because the point is to chop the veggies just enough to get them in the blender together and give the machine a little head start. Large chunks of chilled watermelon, onion and cucumber, along with fresh ripe tomatoes all go popping into your blender or processor for a quick zip around. Season with sherry vinegar, sea salt, a pinch of smoked paprika or chipotle, and a really nice olive oil and you're done. Follow the rough proportions for the produce if you don't have a way to weigh it and everything will be just fine...

See, it's already done. Now get outside and play!

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Watermelon Gazpacho with Jalapeno

Ingredients:

• 12 Oz Watermelon, seedless -chilled
• 8 Oz Fresh tomato, larger fleshy varieties are best
• 4 Oz Cucumber, seedless -chilled
• 4 Oz Vidalia onion -chilled
• 1 Tsp Sea salt
• Pinch smoked paprika or chipotle powder
• 1 Tbsp Extra virgin olive oil
• Fresh jalapeno as desired
• Plantain chips (corn, sweet potato, etc. are also great)

Roughly chop the cold watermelon, cucumber, and onion into 1 inch thick shapes. Chop the tomato into similar chunks and include all the juice. Place the produce in the pitcher of a blender or food processor and process until the mixture is soupy but with a little texture left. The soup should be similar to a very fine salsa. Add the vinegar, salt, and smoked paprika (or chipotle) and blend briefly to incorporate. Remove the gazpacho from the pitcher into a large bowl and stir in the olive oil.

Remove the seeds from the jalapeno, cut into long, 1/4 inch strips, and then into a very small dice. Garnish each portion of the gazpacho with jalapeno and serve with plantain chips.

Yield: 3.5 C gazpacho.

The soup will keep refrigerated for one week. Before serving, allow the gazpacho to warm slightly after removing from the fridge in order to let the olive oil loosen and for best flavor.

Buttery Braised Leeks

This might be the first in a summer series I will call "How to Cook Vegetables!". With an exclamation point to make it seem urgent. It is kind of urgent as oh-so-fresh local farmers market veggies are only here for a limited time, and should be enjoyed in copious amounts. I will be inhaling fruits and berries as well of course, but I feel like there is slightly more need for easy ideas for veggies. Maybe some that don't get enough attention, or simple preparations that are overlooked but perfect.

Soon enough there will be colossal leeks showing up at our farmer's markets and they will demand your attention. Maybe some are slightly more intimidating, some more mundane but could be spruced up. What do I do with all that leek? Can I even eat all of that? What the heck is kohlrabi anyway? Hopefully this recipe will help you wolf down more leek than you ever dreamed imaginable.

I love when I find massive leeks nearly three feet long. They are perfect as they often have an 80/20 ratio of tender white stalk to tougher green tops, and better yet is that the most delicious ways to prepare these gigantic, mild onions are the also the simplest. Since time must be taken to clean the leeks of the sandy soil they love to grow in, time is saved on the other end by using a nearly hands-off approach to cooking them which results in a magical, buttery, absolutely slurp-able heap of goodness that you will make again and again.

When the leeks have a lot of green top, don't despair. Remove any leathery layers on the outside and then, instead of cutting the green heads off straight across, angle your knife up 45 degrees from both sides. This saves some of the tender parts that are inside the center under the leaves. Don't forget to bag those green tops and toss them into the freezer for stock!

Make sure and triple wash those dirty little leeks! Use two big bowls, filling one with water and giving the leeks a good swishing and rubbing. Transfer the leeks off of the top of the water with your hands to the other bowl. Fill that bowl with water and repeat two more times, or until there is no more sand falling to the bottom of the wash bowl. All you need is salt, olive oil, water, and a nice pan with a tight fitting lid to braise the leeks.

And if you DO decide to put a little dollop of grass-fed butter on this gorgeous mess of leeks...who am I to judge? Enjoy!

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Buttery Braised Leeks

Ingredients:

• Leeks
• Extra virgin olive oil
• Sea salt

Cut the root bottoms from the leeks and most of the tough green tops. The lighter green parts may be suitable. Cutting at an angle toward the top (pictured above) from the lowest point on the green top that you plan to use will allow you to use some of the hidden tender bits inside the bottom of the green area. Remove any leathery layers of the white area as well.

Slice the leeks lengthwise and then cut them in 1 1/2 inch segments. Gather two large bowls or one large bowl and a colander. Place the leeks in the large bowl and fill to the top with cold water. Shake the leeks around and rub them in your fingers to release dirt. Separate layers that might be stuck together also. This is where extra sand and dirt can hide.

Lift the leeks out of the bowl from the top with your hands either to the other bowl or the colander. Rinse the first bowl clean and repeat twice more or until no more grit falls from the leeks. When they are washed, drain the leeks of excess water.

Place the leeks, salt to taste, and a little olive oil in a deep saute pan or a pot with a tight fitting lid and add about 1/2 to 3/4 inch water depending on the amount of leeks you are braising. 1 Tbsp of olive oil for two medium sized leeks is a good guide. Bring the water to a boil, toss the leeks once, and reduce to a simmer with the lid on. Check the leeks after about 10 minutes. They will usually be as soft as butter in about 15 minutes.

Enjoy immediately!

(Gluten Free!) Orange, Walnut, Date, and Olive Oil Cookies

I have been consuming Cara Cara oranges and walnuts like water over the last month and a half. When my cravings are so healthy and whole, I happily oblige. So, it makes sense that my nearly weekly batch of "Mommy's Healthy Cookies" (which really originates from a throw-together-whatever-you've-got, no recipe kind of "recipe") took an orange-walnut turn. Happily, this proved to be just as awesome as other versions; in fact, my family clamored for more and ate their way through batch after batch as I experimented with gluten free and gluten free/vegan versions!

As it turns out, the vegan version is just shy of something I want to share with you, but I will persist. I am really pleased with this final gluten free version which combines the single mellow sweetness of dates, bright orange, silky olive oil, and lots of walnuts. I feel really good about handing off a couple of these little gems to my kindergartener every day after school because they are lightly sweet, full of fiber, and full of healthy fats. He always wants more, and I can confirm they are a great snack anytime.

If you have a severe gluten reaction or celiac disease, make sure you grab a bag of oats that are CERTIFIED GLUTEN FREE. While oats are naturally gluten free, they can be contaminated by other grains from the field or from processing. Gluten free oats are becoming more widely available so just ask your grocer or call around to see who carries them.

If you have a ribbon zester this may be a good time to use it if you don't mind slightly more prominent bits of orange peel. Zest the fruit in long ribbons and then mince finely. Blending the wet ingredients with the dates and zest ensures that the zest and dates incorporate better. If you want a finer orange zest, use a microplane on the fruit and blend the zest into the wet ingredients in the same way.

If you haven't been baking with olive oil, I hope these cookies can be a gateway experience for you. Olive oil has a surprisingly unobtrusive flavor when baked and a lends a soft, tender mouthfeel to treats from the oven. Orange, olive oil, walnuts, and dates compliment each other wonderfully in a kid-friendly way too. If the orange zest is too overwhelming (for kiddos or even adults), just reduce by 1 Tbsp and give it a try again. To me, the orange peel is essential.

Make sure you have a processor or blender with a nice sharp blade. The oats and walnuts make a nicer, more tender cookie when they can be ground fine. The oats should be a rough flour consistency, and the walnuts should be like rough sand. The nuts that each ball of dough is rolled in should be chopped to a  pebbly consistency with a knife or in the processor.

If you want variety, try leaving some cookies without the extra chopped walnuts or add a single half walnut pressed into the top for a nice look too. I can't get enough walnuts so I recommend rolling them in the chopped nuts, which gives them a nice crunchy outside too. You choose! Enjoy.

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Orange, Walnut, Date, and Olive Oil Cookies

Ingredients:

• 1 1/2 C Rolled Oats, certified gluten free, not quick oats
• 1 1/2 C Walnuts, I used large pieces, not chopped, not whole
• 2 Tsp Ground flax seed
• 1 Tsp Baking soda
• 1 Tsp Baking powder
• 1/4 Tsp Sea salt
• 8 Dates, pitted and roughly chopped
• 1/3 C Extra virgin olive oil
• 2 Large egg
• 3 Tbsp Orange zest
• 2 Tbsp Orange juice
• 1 Tsp Vanilla extract
• 2 C Walnuts, chopped small for coating the cookies

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees and prepare two cookies sheets with parchment paper.

Separately grind the oats and the 1 1/2 C walnuts very fine in a food processor or blender. In a medium mixing bowl, combine the oats, walnuts, flax, baking soda, baking powder, and sea salt. Mix the dry ingredients well.

In the same processor or blender, combine the dates, olive oil, egg, orange zest, orange juice, and vanilla extract. Puree this mixture as smooth as possible.

Combine the wet ingredients with the dry ingredients in the mixing bowl and stir until completely incorporated into a wet dough. Place the 2 C of small chopped walnuts in a bowl and use a Tablespoon measure to make heaping Tablespoon balls of dough. Each time you make a ball of dough, roll each completely in the chopped walnuts and press to 1/2 inch thickness on the parchment.

When all the dough is rolled, pressed, and evenly spaced on the sheet pans, bake the cookies for 12 to 14 minutes. Check the bottoms of the cookies for light browning to determine when the cookies are done. Allow the cookies to cool on the sheet pans and store in an airtight container at room temperature or simply place them on a lightly covered plate.

The cookies will keep best for 1 week at room temperature. Refrigerate them after one week.

Warm Freekeh and Broiled Tomato Salad with Mint Vinaigrette

For some reason I haven't gravitated toward the wheat family of whole grains for a while. Wheat berries, kamut, farro...all of these are delicious whole grains, but my taste buds have wandered elsewhere recently. Maybe I was tired of chewing so much (just kidding). Then, a couple of weeks ago to be exact, I finally tried freekeh. I knew about it, but was skeptical that it could really be all that different from other whole kernel wheats. Well, I was wrong, and I am glad to say so.

Freekeh is immature or "green" durum wheat that is roasted after harvest. Roasting may be a euphemism because the un-threshed wheat stalks are apparently heaped in piles and actually set on fire, causing the straw and chaff to smoke and toast the grains. And smokey these grains are. The wheat is then threshed and rubbed to remove chaff and hulls.  I was really surprised by the flavor the first time I tasted it, and it smells beautiful before and during cooking as well. You will find cracked freekeh, which is not unlike bulgar wheat, and you will find whole grain freekeh. Whole or cracked freekeh makes a stellar grain for tabouleh or other grain salads, is often included in soups and stews, and adds an unexpected pop of flavor and texture to green salads. Could it be awesome in a veggie burger maybe?

This recipe is going to satisfy your yearning both for spring and summer. The feta is completely optional as it has tons of flavor without it. I am partial to the salty-soft cheese myself, and had a little on hand so I added it! This salad is a perfect side served family style or plated as part of a main course. For lunch or dinner, this surprisingly addictive warm salad is bound to please.

Freekeh can be cooked like brown rice or boiled in extra water like wheat berries. I just boiled it, using more water than you would for brown rice, so I didn't have to worry about the pot going dry. I then drained the grain well, and let it steam off for a few minutes so that it was just warm for serving.

Cherry or grape tomatoes and the broiler are good friends. Broiling these already sweet little tomatoes is a nice way to eek out even more flavor, creating warm little morsels for the mint vinaigrette to grace.

I have to warn you that the ratio of chopped mint to vinegar and oil in the dressing of this salad makes it less like a vinaigrette with mint IN IT, and more like a HEAP OF MINT that's been dressed up in a little vinaigrette!  But, it is perfect. Lots of mint is what is needed here. Enjoy!

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Warm Freekeh and Broiled Tomato Salad with Mint Vinaigrette

Ingredients:

• 1 C Freekeh, whole grain
• 3 C Water
• 1/4 Tsp Sea salt
• 1 Pint Cherry or grape tomatoes
• 4 Oz Feta, crumbled (optional)

For the Vinaigrette

• 1/2 C Chopped fresh mint, lightly packed
• 1 Tsp Honey
• 3 Tbsp Sherry vinegar
• 1/8 Tsp Sea salt
• Grated garlic the size of a pea (see procedure)
• 5 Tbsp Extra virgin olive oil

Spread the freekeh in a small sheet pan and remove any bits of chaff or foreign objects as you would with beans or lentils. Rinse the grain in a mesh strainer or simply in a few changes of water in your cooking pot. Place the drained grain in a pot with 3 C water and 1/4 Tsp sea salt and bring to a boil. Reduce to a healthy simmer and cook for 15 to 20 minutes until the grains are tender and split open. Drain the grain well and return it to the pot. Allow it to steam with the lid off, while still in the pot, to help remove residual moisture.

While the freekeh is cooking, prepare the tomatoes and the vinaigrette. Begin by slicing the cherry tomatoes in half from top to bottom and space them out on a sheet pan with parchment paper. Sprinkle with a little salt if desired. You can place some cut side down and some cut side up if you want to blister the skins for a nice effect.

Prepare the vinaigrette by chopping the mint fairly small but not quite mincing it. In a small bowl, combine and mix the mint, honey, vinegar, salt, and grated garlic. I recommend a small amount of garlic about the size of a pea. If you don't have a microplane to grate the garlic, mince it as small as possible. Incorporate the olive oil while mixing gently with a small whisk or fork. This dressing will not emulsify so just mix to combine all ingredients as much as possible.

When the vinaigrette is ready and the freekeh is cooked, drained, and is just warm (not too hot or the mint will cook and turn black), broil the tomatoes on high for about 3 to 4 minutes. Check the tomatoes after three minutes as broiler temps can vary. I broil mine at 525 degrees on the closest rack to the flames. The tomatoes should be softened, warmed, and slightly blistered.

Serving Suggestions:

Family style: Gently mix the warm, broiled tomatoes with the vinaigrette and spread them over the grain in a nice bowl, topping the salad with crumbled feta.  You may also gently toss the whole salad and serve in a bowl. Be very careful not to mash the tomatoes as you mix.

Individual portions: To serve individual portions, gently mix the grain with the vinaigrette, place a portion of the tomatoes on each scoop of dressed grain, and then top with feta. You may also serve portions of the plain grain topped with dressed tomatoes and finished with feta as individual portions. Or just toss it all (as in the second family style suggestion) and serve portions like that. Lots of options.

This salad makes 4 to 6 servings. The salad will keep, cooled, for 3 to 4 days but is best served immediately. The mint will turn dark after refrigeration but will still taste great.

Baked Kuku Sabzi with Greens and Pomegranate Molasses Vinaigrette

My sweet, sweet friend Yuko touched base with me last week from her current post in Amman Jordan where she currently lives with her husband who works for the Japanese embassy. She is a true food ambassador and practices what she calls "Food Diplomacy" as she travels around the world. One of the most cherished meals I have ever had was prepared by her as a going away (cleaning out her fridge/freezer) get together, given at their condo in DC before they moved back to Japan for a time.

We met and became friends through a series of cooking classes that I was giving in our neighborhood. She was a relentless questioner, always curious about all ingredients I was using, and never afraid to taste, ask, and contribute to the subject. It is clear to me how the globe-trotting life of diplomatic employees suits them, and how food is a language that Yuko uses to connect with the people of the world. Yuko hosts Japanese food tasting parties to share her cuisine with those she meets in Jordan, and works as a food stylist in Japan. She keeps her friends and family updated on new culinary experiences, recipes, and food-ways from her new home in the middle east/ arabian peninsula via social media. Living in a region with such a vast, rich, and ancient mingling culinary traditions, she will have plenty to learn and share before their next post.

Wouldn't you love to zip off on an impromptu culinary tour of the middle-east? I would, but for now I am satisfied with research, inspiration, and rooting out an authentic Persian restaurant in my area. The recipe for my current inspiration is Kuku Sabzi, a traditional Persian dish centering mainly around herbs, vegetables, walnuts, eggs, a blend of spices. Some versions include ground lamb. It is normally cooked as a fritatta would be, in a hot saute pan which is then finished in the oven to bake through. I thought the combination of eggs, heaps of finely minced herbs, and walnuts sounded irresistible. Being deeply interested in food history, this recipe brought to mind baked egg recipes and savory pies common in medieval European cookery, which was strongly influenced by the middle east especially after the crusades.

I have chosen to bake the eggs, which simplifies the preparation, not that the original is difficult, though this does not lead to the crisp bottom that the "fritatta method" produces. A pan/skillet cooked Kuku Sabzi is inverted after cooking, presenting the crisp bottom as the top, whereas my recipe produces a soft, delicious, quiche-like baked egg dish. I have also omitted the yogurt often called for simply as an alteration to fit the tastes of my family members, who sample my recipes first, but it's good to know that the result is wonderful without the dairy. This dish is often garnished with pomegranate seeds, so, pomegranates being out of season, I paired it with greens dressed in a tart, fruity pomegranate vinaigrette. The content of the salad is more or less up to you, and this dressing will compliment many greens.

The appeals of this dish are many. The herb ratio is out of control, and I personally view herbs as greens, not just pretty accents or garnishes. Little bites of sweet, soft date help to balance out a slight bitterness from the walnuts, and that some might perceive from the herbs. The eggs and walnuts bring protein to the table and satisfy. Then, of course, a beautiful spice blend complimented by just a splash of rosewater. It's a harmonious compilation of some of my favorite things.

White or yellow onions can be used instead of scallions, as well as shallots, but I opted to continue with the green theme and use scallions/green onions. The onions are just sauteed until slightly soft along with the dates. Then the spices are added to the onions. Everything eventually goes into the beaten eggs. The combination of nuts and eggs was a new idea for me and I love it. A well oiled pie plate makes a great baking dish and produces nice, wedge shaped servings. 

Garnishing each serving with a intact half walnut is a nice touch. Apparently, it's just what you do!

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Now For the Dressing

This pomegranate molasses vinaigrette is nice and tart. It can be just the pop you need for so many things! Roasted veggies, broiled asparagus, any tender salad greens, grilled veggies, pasta and veggie salads too. And it's quick. Pomegranate molasses is a perfect pantry item with many uses. Made from reduced pomegranate juice, and usually sugar too, it makes a great drizzle just by itself, contributes to beautiful marinade and dressings, and is a traditional souring agent for mediterranean and middle eastern stews.

Whisk together this basic vinaigrette, dress some beautiful greens, and nestle portions of Kuku Sabzi right onto that salad. Feel free to add a dollop of yogurt or soft sheep or goat cheese to the plate. This would make a nice addition, but i left it dairy free. Enjoy!

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Baked Kuku Sabzi with Greens and Pomegranate Molasses Vinaigrette

Ingredients:

• Heaping 1/2 C walnuts plus six intact halves
• 1/2 C Lightly packed, minced parsley
• 1/2 C Lightly packed, minced dill
• 1/2 C Lightly packed, minced cilantro
• 1/2 C Thinly sliced green onion (about 3 to 5 onions)
• 1 Large, soft, medjool date
• 1/4 Tsp cumin
• 1/4 Tsp coriander
• 1/4 Tsp cinnamon
• 1/8 Tsp cardamom
• 1/8 Tsp black pepper
• 2 Tbsp Extra virgin olive oil, divided
• 6 Large eggs
• 1/2 Tsp Sea salt
• 2 Tbsp almond milk (or desired milk)
• 1 Tsp Rose water

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Set aside the six intact walnut halves and place the rest on a sheet pan and toast in the oven until they are fragrant and slightly browning, about 8 minutes. Allow the walnuts to cool and pulse them in a food processor until they are ground to a sandy consistency. Wash and dry the herbs and onions well. Mince the leafy herbs and slice the green onion into thin rings. Remove the pit of the date and mince it as small as possible. It will stick together.

In a small cup, combine the cumin, coriander, cinnamon, cardamom and black pepper. Saute the onion and date with 1 Tbsp olive oil until the onion has just softened. Add the spices and saute 1 minute more. Set the onion mixture aside and allow to cool a little.

In a medium mixing bowl, whisk the eggs, salt, milk, and rose water, making sure the eggs are well beaten.  Whisk in the onion, date, and spice mixture and then the minced herbs. Prepare a 9 inch glass pie plate or  9 x 9 glass baking dish by coating the bottom and sides with 1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil. The baking time given for this recipe works for a glass dish where the egg mixture is about 3/4 inch deep. If you use a baking dish of a different size, resulting in the egg mixture being either deeper or more shallow, adjust the baking time to make sure the Kuku Sabzi is cooked through or not over-cooked.

Pour the mixture into the prepared dish and nestle the six walnut halves into the mixture, evenly marking six portions. Bake for 25 minutes in the middle rack, and check the center by pushing gently to see if it is set. After 25 minutes, check every two minutes until the center just springs back when gently touched. Do not over bake. My dish took exactly 28 minutes each time.

For the Vinaigrette and Greens:

• 4 Tbsp Pomegranate molasses
• 3 Tbsp Lemon juice
• 1/4 Tsp Salt
• 1/2 Tsp Whole grain mustard
• Grated garlic the size of a pea
• 4 Tbsp Extra virgin olive oil
• Your choice of greens and salad items (I used red leaf lettuce, onions, and grapes)

In a small bowl, whisk together the pomegranate molasses, lemon juice, salt, mustard, and grated garlic. Drizzle the olive oil in a little at a time while whisking. This dressing will naturally separate so simply shake/mix before using.

Create a small bed of greens with your desired salad elements and dress with the vinaigrette. Slice the Kuku Sabzi into six pieces and serve warm with the salad and enjoy!

Yield: Six servings of Kuku Sabzi and 3/4 C Vinaigrette.

*NOTE: The Kuku Sabzi is delicious at any temperature. If reheating, please reheat gently.

Cauliflower Fennel Pecan Soup with Olive Oil Honey and Thyme Biscuits

There have been a lot of biscuits around the house lately. I have had an acute, late winter baked goods craving which I have been satisfying quite effectively with a succession of biscuit test sessions thank you very much. It's a good thing that the luscious, silky, and strangely creamy soup that accompanies the biscuits is a low-carb dream come true. And, it's insanely easy to make.

Do you get into fennel? I dig fennel a lot, but this soup doesn't hit you over the head with fennel flavor. The fennel, shallot, pecan, and cauliflower form a perfectly harmonized quartet which, combined with the biscuits, is reminiscent of biscuits and gravy. The tender, hearty, and somewhat addictive biscuits also play the roll of a dumplings when plopped down in the center of the puree. It's a good combo. Really good.

I've been making a cauliflower, pecan, and fresh thyme soup for clients for years, but I decided to shake it up, marry fennel to the cauliflower, and move the thyme to a biscuit. There is no need to purchase the more pricey whole pecans since the soup will be blended. Pecan pieces will do just fine. Take the time to slowly soften the fennel, shallot, and garlic, avoiding any browning that might introduce bitter flavors. This soup is all about soft and buttery. Don't forget to save some or all of those feathery fennel leaves to garnish or add to the soup.

The pecans mingle with the olive oil and veggies for a few minutes and toast slightly in the oil. The liquid, sliced cauliflower, and sea salt go into the pot next to simmer. Using water is perfect in this recipe and produces lovely, clean flavors. If you choose to use stock, use a mild home-made stock that won't overpower or muddy the vegetables in the soup.

After the soup has simmered, the pecans and all vegetables should be quiet soft. Just puree the soup until it is as perfectly smooth as possible, check the salt level, and season with sherry vinegar. If you don't have sherry vinegar on hand, I would suggest white balsamic or rice vinegar as substitutes. Chopping all of the beautiful fennel greens and adding them to the soup is also a great option, as well as finishing the soup with just a touch fresh ground white or black pepper.

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And now for the biscuits....

These little babies, or a multitude of variations, are going to be a new go-to recipe in my kitchen. Inspired by a number of olive oil biscuit recipes I found, and an effective and easy folding technique gleaned from the heartofabaker.com blog, I crafted these little bites to satisfy in both taste and texture. The dough is soft and supple, barely pulled together, gently rolled and gently folded several times to produce a flaky, layered texture.

Greedily, I wanted more pecans even after including them in the soup, so I added finely pulsed pecans to the dough along with the fresh thyme and honey. I also prefer the texture and nuttier taste of whole wheat pastry flour, so I used half whole wheat pastry flour and half all purpose flour. This produced the perfect texture for me, not too cloyingly doughy and not too dense. Keep a light touch with the dough and you will get great results.

Get your oven hot ahead of time because these come together fast. Don't sweat the perfection of the folding. Roll minimally, keep the work surface and the dough floured, gently fold in thirds lengthwise, flip, turn and repeat two more times, then bake! Make them just before serving if possible because they are killer plopped right into the soup straight out of the oven. Enjoy!

Easy Peasy!

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Cauliflower Fennel Pecan Soup with Olive Oil Honey and Thyme Biscuits

For the Soup:

• 1 C Shallot, red or yellow, thinly sliced
• 1 C Fennel, thinly sliced
• 2 Lg Cloves garlic
• 1/3 C Extra virgin olive oil
• 1 C Pecan pieces
• 1/4 C Mirin
• 1 Lb Cauliflower, sliced in 1/2 inch thick chunks
• 6 C Water or stock
• 2 Tsp Sea salt
• 1 Tsp Sherry vinegar
• *Optional: fresh ground pepper

Peel and slice the shallots about 1/8th inch thick. Halve the fennel and slice it 1/8th inch thick as well. Reserve the fine, tender fennel leaves for garnishing whole or chopped like dill. You may also chop the fine leaves and incorporate them with the soup after blending.

Choose a heavy bottomed soup pot (at least 4 qt.), and saute the shallot, fennel, and garlic with the olive oil over low-medium heat until the vegetables are soft and becoming translucent. Do not allow the fennel and onion to brown. This will take about 10 minutes. Add the pecans and saute for an additional 4 minutes. Add the mirin and allow the liquid to reduce for 2 minutes. Now add the water or stock and salt and bring to a boil. Cover the pot, reduce to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes.

After simmering, the vegetables should be very tender. Puree the soup until it is completely smooth and silky. Check the salt level and add the sherry vinegar. Add fresh ground pepper to taste.

Yield: 7 1/2 C, about 6 servings

For the Biscuits:

• 1/2 C plus 2 Tbsp Whole wheat pastry flour (also extra for dusting)
• 1/2 C All purpose flour
• 2 Tbsp Finely chopped or processed pecans
• 2 Tbsp Corn starch
• 2 Tsp Roughly chopped fresh thyme
• 3/4 Tsp Baking powder
• Scant 1/2 Tsp Sea salt
• 1/2 C Almond milk (or milk of choice)
• 1/4 C Extra virgin olive oil
• 1 Tbsp Honey, liquid
• 1/2 Tsp Apple cider vinegar

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. In a medium mixing bowl, combine the flours, pecans, corn starch, thyme, baking powder, and sea salt. Mix these together well with a whisk. Make a well in the middle of the dry ingredients. In a small bowl mix together the almond milk, olive oil, honey, and apple cider vinegar. Pour the wet ingredients into the well in the dry, and use a spatula to just barely bring together a wet dough. Turn the dough out onto a smooth, well floured surface. Gently shape the dough to form a very soft ball.

Gently roll the dough into a rectangular shape about 3/4 inch thick. Fold the dough in thirds lengthwise to create three layers. Turn the dough 90 degrees and flip the folded side down. Now repeat the process two more times, being careful to work the dough as little as possible.

When you have made the third fold and rolled the dough to 3/4 inch for the last time. Cut the dough in six,  once cut lengthwise and two cuts across. Transfer the biscuits to a sheet pan with parchment paper, leaving at least two inches between biscuits. Bake for 18 minutes. The biscuits should turn golden brown and will have puffed up a little when they are done. Check them at 16 minutes in case your oven runs hot.

Remove the biscuits and serve immediately in the center of the soup. Garnish with the fennel leaves.

The soup and biscuits recipe serves six.

Gluten Free Miso Chicken Noodle Bowl

Whether or not you follow a gluten free diet, there is nothing more nourishing for the soul and the body as a steaming bowl of noodles in a beautiful, savory broth. Have you been suffering one of the seasonal maladies floating around lately? Miso and noodles. Have you been counting the minutes of light gained each day as we move toward the vernal equinox? Miso and noodles. Do you need some fortification to face another month or two of winter? Miso and noodles is the prescription. Be good to yourselves friends.

In honor of my friend "Effy", who has been on a long journey of healing, I have constructed this soup. After finally getting a positive diagnosis of celiac disease (not to be confused with wheat allergy or gluten sensitivity) along with a stunning array of serious food allergies pretty late in the game, she is finally able to begin the journey back to health, but is working with a very restricted diet. I personally cannot imagine what it would be like to experience cascading health problems for years, eventually coming to see food as the enemy with no answers in sight. After the damage is done, it can be a long haul to repair the gut. I am so grateful that things are looking up for my witty, creative, beautiful and resilient friend.

The soup begins with a solid, flavorful, vegetable stock. Some items that I have added for minerals and depth of flavor include kombu, a type of kelp that is widely available in groceries and Asian markets, and burdock root. Burdock is a common "weed" across North America, one with large pokey seed heads that have probably hitched a ride on you during a late summer nature walk. It has an amazingly long taproot, often growing down three feet. The Japanese call it "Gobo" and it is loved for it's sweet and earthy taste, which is why I am including it in my stock. It is also considered to have a very strengthening energy. Can't hurt, right? Try slow braising long, thin cuts of burdock and finishing with sesame oil, soy sauce and toasted sesame seeds for an interesting and delicious side dish.

My friend's list of foods that are tolerated does not include many plant based proteins at the moment, so she mostly eats meat. In that spirit I have included very simply baked chicken thighs, which are dark meat, for the protein in the soup. This of course makes the soup more reminiscent of classic chicken noodle soup, and adds to the homey quality. The thighs are simply baked at 350 degrees with a sprinkle of toasted sesame oil and sesame seeds. I usually cook chicken in a cast iron pan, lined with parchment, and covered with foil. The thighs I bought took about 35 minutes, 25 covered and 10 uncovered. Go ahead and add any pan liquids to the stock you will use for the broth.

There are a variety of gluten free noodles out there to choose from and I urge you to simply use what you like best. My personal favorite are 100% buckwheat soba noodles. Soba literally means buckwheat grain in Japanese, but most soba noodles you will find are a blend of wheat flour and buckwheat flour. 100% buckwheat noodles are also rather expensive, and very delicate to work with, but I encourage you to try them. Do a little research regarding the proper cooking technique and some traditional serving suggestions, and enjoy a new experience.

For this recipe however, I chose black rice noodles. They are pretty to look at, quick cooking, and not too fussy. Bean thread noodles (called glass noodles or mung bean vermicelli), or any rice or brown rice noodle will work also. There are newer gluten free offerings made from legumes or lentils also. I haven't found a variety of these type of noodles that I care for very much, but I keep trying new things. There are also varieties of gluten free pasta, some even made with quinoa, that are good for more western dishes, but I prefer Asian style noodles for this soup.

The list of possible accoutrements to the noodle bowl are endless. For our purposes, I propose enoki mushrooms (enokitaki), lots of fresh chives, and sesame baked chicken. Thinly sliced shiitake or button mushrooms work well also. Soft boiled egg, avocado, sauteed carrot, nori, wakame, leeks, smoked fish, roasted squash, green onion, oven roasted tomato, baked tofu,  zucchini, and one billion other additions are all fair game to mix and match.

Now for more magical medicine. In each bowl the seasoning elements must be mixed together before the steaming hot broth is added. This ensures that the miso will dissolve evenly in the broth. A mixture of miso, mirin, and tamari (a traditional Japanese wheat free/ gluten free soy sauce) is made more pungent (and anti viral!) with the addition of freshly grated turmeric root, freshly grated ginger root, and paper thin slices of raw garlic. I have made the amounts of these elements fairly modest in the recipe. If you feel the need for a more potent brew, knock yourself out. I can tolerate double the amounts of turmeric, ginger, and garlic called for when I am under the weather.

Bring all these tasty elements together in a big bowl, put on your slippers, grab some chopsticks, and enjoy!

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Gluten Free Miso Chicken Noodle Bowl

For the stock:

• 7 inch piece of burdock root, roughly 3/4 in. diameter
• 3 Medium carrots
• 1/2 Large yellow or brown onion, approx. 1/2 lb
• 3 Large celery stalks
• 6 Dry shiitake, about 1 1/2 inch wide each
• 1 Bulb garlic
• Kombu, pieces totaling about 10 x 3 in
• 1 Oz Ginger root (2 inch piece)
• 3 Qt water (12 C)

Rinse all stock ingredients except the garlic bulb. Prep the veggies as follows: Slice the entire burdock in 1/4 inch rounds or bias cut. Cut the carrot in 1/2 inch thick rounds or bias cut. Cut the onion in 1/2 inch slices, skin on. Cut the celery in 1/2 inch slices. Slice the garlic bulb in half around the middle and roughly chop the halves, skin on. Cut the ginger in 1/4 inch slices. Combine all prepped ingredients, kombu, mushrooms, and water, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer for 1 hour. Strain the stock.

Yield: 2 Qt

Note: This recipe makes a large batch of stock. Much more than needed for the recipe. Freeze unused stock for future use. Also, I like to retrieve the kombu from the stock pot, slice very thinly, and add to my soup.

For the Soup:

• 2 Chicken thighs, skin on
• 3 Tsp Toasted sesame oil (1 for the chicken, 2 for finishing the soup)
• 1 Tsp Sesame seeds
• Two portions black rice noodles, roughly 5 oz total (does not have to be exact)
• 2 Tbsp Tamari (traditional Japanese wheat free soy sauce)
• 4 Tsp Mirin
• 4 Tsp White miso paste (other types will do, but check the labels, some miso contains barley)
• 1/4 Tsp Grated turmeric
• 1/2 Tsp Grated ginger
• 1 Medium clove garlic
• 2 Tbsp Chives, thinly sliced
• 3 to 4 oz enoki mushrooms

While the stock is simmering, preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Line a small baking dish with parchment. Place the chicken thighs in the baking dish, drizzle each with 1 Tsp toasted sesame oil, and sprinkle with the sesame seeds. Cover the dish and bake until the thighs just reach 165 degrees internal temperature. Mine took about 30 minutes but they will vary with size. Check the temp at 25 minutes.

While the chicken is cooking, place the two portions of black rice noodles in 2 quarts of cold water in a pot and bring to a boil, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. Cook the noodles until they are just al dente. Drain the noodles and rinse immediately with cold water. Shake out the cold water and set the noodles aside.

When the chicken and noodles are done, begin prepping two large soup bowls. In each bowl place 1 Tbsp Tamari, 2 Tsp mirin, 2 Tsp miso paste, 1/8 Tsp grated fresh turmeric root, and 1/4 Tsp grated fresh ginger root. Slice the garlic clove paper thin and place anywhere from 4 to 8 thin slices of ginger in each bowl. With a spoon, stir this mixture until a uniform paste is formed.

When the chicken is cool enough to handle, remove the meat from the bones and remove the skin. Slice the skin into 1/2 inch or thinner strips. Slice the meat into large bite sized pieces. Gently rinse the enokitake, and remove the bottom 1/2 inch of the cluster. Separate the mushrooms into smaller groups as desired to be divided between both soups. 

Ladle 1 1/2 C very hot, but not boiling, stock into each bowl and stir gently to combine the paste with the stock. In each bowl, heap in the portion of noodles, chicken, mushrooms, and chives. Garnish each bowl with 1 Tsp each toasted sesame oil. Enjoy immediately!

Yield: 2 Large miso bowls or 4 smaller portions. A half portion is a perfect lunch size for me. The full portion is a hearty dinner.

Molasses Black Eyed Peas and Johnny Cakes

I must be on a comfort food streak because warm, yummy, and tummy filling foods keep coming up on my radar, and therefore onto my plate. I made a big batch of chicken noodle soup for my son, which he loves, a hearty corn, quinoa and hamburger stew for him, which he didn't love, a chanterelle mushroom, chevre, leek and dill bread pudding, and black eyed peas and johnny cakes all in one week. Yep. Hello February.

I have always relied on dried black eyed peas to be a fast cooking bean option for my clients' menus. I do try to cook dry beans when I can, but also use canned beans for convenience. The soft, saucy beans I made this week are perfect for smothering over Johnny cakes hot off the griddle. Johnny cakes are basically little cornbread pancakes, with the addition of fresh corn (or frozen) to the cornmeal batter. This little cakes and beans duo can be a meal in itself but both are great items to bring to a potluck gathering. Pair with some braised greens, scrambled eggs, okra, sauteed bell peppers or whatever you come up with.

The standard wisdom is that black eyed peas will take 15 minutes in the pressure cooker at 15 lbs pressure without soaking. Those of you with new-fangled cookers like Instant Pots can use that too. Or, soak those beans overnight and pop them on the stove. Most soaked black eyed peas have cooked soft in anywhere from 25 to 35 minutes for me, but if you have a pressure cooker go ahead and use it.

The flavor components are nice and simple. Molasses or blackstrap molasses, which has a more intense flavor, onion, clove, smoked paprika, garlic, bay leaf, sea salt, Dijon, and a little peanut oil or olive oil. I like the flavor of the unrefined peanut oil. There is an age old controversy about adding salt to beans while cooking. You will get all sorts of anecdotal answers on this. Some say it prevents the beans from softening, some say it doesn't matter, which I tend to believe, but I choose to add the salt and mustard, which has salt, at the end. The molasses should be added at the end as well as it is acidic and will keep the beans from softening.

The result is something sweet and savory, but less sweet than most prepared baked beans and with a little more complexity. Sweetness and bitterness come from the molasses with a slight smokey flavor from the paprika. Onion, bay, and clove add savory notes. Consider cumin, black pepper, chipotle, a pinch of allspice, and of course thick sliced bacon, to be fried in the pot before adding the beans, as flavor options as well. I wanted molasses to be in the spotlight all by itself for a change as opposed to brown sugar which is often used to sweeten beans. Brown sugar is simply white sugar with molasses added back in anyway! Maybe molasses will make it's way to your pancakes, cakes, puddings etc. It goes way beyond gingerbread, and I love the flavor.

Now, onto the Johnny cakes. Nobody will dock you points for just cooking these up and slapping some butter and maple on them, but I think they are great in a savory setting with gravy or beans especially. Letting the cornmeal stand with your choice of milk before making the batter is a key factor in creating soft cakes. Even when using a fine cornmeal, there can still be some crunch left if it is not allowed to soften with the liquid for a couple of hours. I used grassfed whole milk in one test, and then almond milk in the next and they both turned out to be delicious.

The dough is pretty straight forward, with one additional step. Depending on how much texture you want your cakes to have, the corn must be pulsed or blended smooth with the batter. You can add the corn to the batter an blend it all at once in your food processor, choosing to pulse until there are little chunks of corn, or puree until smooth. I chose to mix everything EXCEPT the corn into the batter, and then I pureed the corn with about a cup of the batter and incorporated it back in. Leave the corn more coarse if you want texture or puree if you want smoother cakes.

With the leavening mixed in, the batter is a thick but somewhat fluffy consistency. I am a sucker for batter of all kinds so I can report that it is also very tasty. 1/4 C of batter makes a roughly 4 inch cake. You may have to flatten and push the batter just a little as you pour each because you want each cake to be about 1/2 in thick to cook through. They will puff up a little as they cook, and they smell really, really good!

Johnny cakes are not exactly like pancakes in that they sometimes take a little coaxing to flip. Gently peek under one edge to check that the bottom has attained a nice, crispy, deep golden-brown crust,  which takes about 2 to 3 minutes for the first side. Then, use your thinnest spatula and begin by releasing the edges, working your way under the cakes gently until you get under the whole thing. The second side takes about 2 minutes to cook. I like to use my cast iron pan and I find it necessary to take care in flipping them. If you are using a slick non-stick surface they may release easier.

This recipe makes about 9, 4 inch cakes, but chances are you're going to have to try one right off the griddle. So, let's say 8, a nice round number. Enjoy!

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Molasses Black Eyed Peas and Johnny Cakes

For The Johnny Cakes

• 1 1/2 C Fine ground cornmeal
• 1 C Milk of your choice
• 1 Tsp Baking powder
• 1/2 Tsp Baking soda
• 2 Tbsp Maple syrup
• 2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 2 Tbsp lemon juice
• 1/2 Tsp Sea salt
• 1 C Fresh or frozen (thawed) corn kernels
• Oil for brushing the pan

Mix the milk and cornmeal in a bowl to form a thick paste and let stand, covered, two hours or overnight if possible. When the cornmeal mixture is ready, add the baking powder, baking soda, maple syrup, olive oil, lemon juice and sea salt. Mix this together thoroughly. In a food processor or blender, combine about 1 C of batter with the corn kernels and puree until very smooth. If you need to take a little more batter to make it blend, go ahead. Add this mixture back into the batter and mix well.

Prepare a griddle, cast iron pan, or non-stick skillet over medium heat. Have a little oil ready for coating or brushing the pan between batches of cakes. A high heat oil works well, but I used unrefined peanut oil. If you are careful to modulate the temperature of the pan you can use olive oil as well with minimal smoking. 

When the pan is hot, ladle 1/4 C of the batter into the pan for each cake. Each cake should be about 1/2 inch thick to cook well, so gently spread the batter or wiggle the pan to get each pour to flatten evenly. Cook the first side for three minutes or until you can see the bottom of the cakes turning a deep golden brown when you peek under with a spatula. Gently work your way around each cake to loosen it from the pan, flip it, and cook an additional 2 to 3 minutes on the second side. Serve the cakes hot.

Yield: Approximately 9, 4 inch cakes.

The cakes will keep for one week in the refrigerator.

For The Black Eyed Peas:

• 2 C Dry black eyed peas
• 4 C water
• 1/4 Medium yellow onion (a big wedge)
• 1/4 Tsp Smoked paprika
• 1/8 Tsp Clove
• 3 Large garlic cloves, smashed
• 2 Bay leaves
• 1/4 C Molasses
• 1 Tsp Sea salt
• 1 Tsp Dijon mustard
• 1 Tsp Unprocessed peanut oil

Pick though the beans for grit or funky beans. Rinse the beans and combine them in the pressure cooker with 4 C water, a wedge of onion (about 1/4 of a medium onion), the ground clove, smoked paprika, garlic, and bay leaves. Bring the peas up to 15 lbs. pressure and maintain for 15 minutes. Allow the pressure to release naturally and add the molasses, sea salt, mustard, and peanut oil. Stir the pot and allow the peas to simmer for a few more minutes over low-medium heat.

Serve the black eyed peas hot over the hot Johnny Cakes and enjoy!

The peas will keep for one week refrigerated and freeze well.

Yield: 6 Servings

Black Trumpet and Crimini Mushroom Fried Brown Rice

Time for me to join mushrooms anonymous. I know I am hitting the mycological edibles pretty hard lately (hey, that sounds like a good name for a blog, or a band...hmmm), but I have to go where the spirit takes me. This week it's a hearty heap of chewy, umami-laden brown rice. My neighbors are kind enough to sample my recipe tests, and they have reported that the flavors are, and I quote, "edibly satisfying" with five smiley faces. Now that's an endorsement! I have to agree, when only something savory will do, this might just be the thing.

I can pose a pretty good argument against the conventional wisdom that white rice, as opposed to brown rice, makes a better blank canvas for sauces, flavors, etc. I think this idea has simply become an assumption that isn't challenged often enough because there is a lack of will. Well, the chef will not abide.

Do I eat white rice? Yep. It is indeed a great sop for flavors. It's fast and delicious and needs no defending, especially on nights when I have 20 minutes to whip up dinner. This doesn't mean that brown rice isn't also a great accompaniment to sauces and flavors. One doesn't exclude the other.

I've been eeking brown back into my life, and in my life B.C. (before child) I almost never ate white rice, I ate brown. Why? Because it has lots of flavor, it's chewy and nutty, and it's delicious, that's why. And I took the time, that's why. And fiber, there is always that. Then, P.C. (post child), it became easy to make excuses for my white rice habit and I got a bit lazy. No more!

How much extra time does brown rice take? Well, considering that I cook a pot of white rice for about 15 minutes, then let it steam for another 5, and I cook a pot of brown rice for 40 minutes and let it steam for another 5, that's a little more than twice the time. I think it's worth it to plan ahead and make a pot of brown rice one night of the week that can be used multiple times. Once in a while. Just for a change. We must simply clear our minds of the notion that brown rice is somehow pedestrian. Ok, I will get off of my soapbox.

One note about the rice for fried rice. You do not want it too soft. You will find many recipes call for a 1:2 ratio of rice to water. I NEVER cook rice at this ratio. I always use slightly less. Sometimes 1/4 less, especially with white rice. This is where having a tight fitting lid comes in. If your lid leaks steam, the rice will loose TOO MUCH water, and may be crunchy. If you use too high a ratio of water to rice, it will be too soft. So, make sure you have a trusty, heavy bottomed, tight lidded pot that you always use for rice. That way the measurements for this recipe will produce perfectly chewy, separate little grains. The steaming process in the end allows the rice to absorb the last bits of moisture in the pot as well, avoiding a soupy wet texture on the outside of the rice. Having the correct cookware is always a good investment.

Now here is a fun ingredient. Fermented black soy beans. Salty, nutty, and a little sweet like miso, this ingredient is found in Chinese and Korean cuisine and dishes like Kung Pao Chicken (Gung Bao), seafood dishes, and one of my favorites, Ma Po Tofu among others. Easy to find at an Asian grocer, the whole beans are usually rinsed before using to slightly reduce the saltiness. You will also find fermented black bean paste, which I used in my recipe for Cold Udon with Roasted Black Bean Sauce.

How many types of dried mushrooms do I have in my pantry right now? Black Trumpet (seen above after soaking, and then sliced), mushroom power packed Porcini, beautiful woodsy-orange Chanterelle, pale Oyster mushrooms, and Woodear mushrooms, strange little black and grey undulations that take on an interesting texture when re-hydrated. I have yet to try the Woodear, which are not strong in flavor but prized for their texture and ability to absorb flavors. Most dried mushrooms, save the highly prized morels, are actually relatively inexpensive, and I usually use 1/4 to 1/2 oz. at a time.

Interestingly, the Black Trumpets in this recipe remind me of one of my favorite sea veggies, Arame. Arame, a type of kelp, is black and shredded like the mushrooms when prepped. Arame has a mild, sweeter taste than many other sea veggies. It is also visually striking, so I like the similar effect of the Black Trumpets in the rice.

Ok, so the rice is cooked and cooled, or maybe you cooked it the night before, good move. You have your fresh veg prepped: crimini sliced, celery, onion, ginger, garlic, maybe a little chili pepper, all ready to go. The dried Trumpet mushrooms are soaked, squeezed, and thinly sliced. We are not tossing out all the flavor of the soaking liquid, oh no. It is reduced to 2 Tbsp in volume and is a component of the finishing sauce along with the black soybeans, mirin, and soy sauce of your choosing! All that mushroomy flavor is conserved.

The fresh mushrooms need to be sauteed over relatively high heat until they have browned on the edges. This stops them from releasing water into the dish when everything else is added. Notice that the garlic is only added with the second batch of veggies so it won't have time to burn. Then the rice is added, tossed along with everything else, and finished with the sauce. If you have a nice big, well seasoned wok, this is a good time to get it out. I used a big 11 inch non-toxic, non-stick pan that I have. This recipe makes quite a heap of rice, so if you want ample leftovers make the full recipe. Cut it in half for about 3 hearty portions.

As we all know, fried rice is excellent with eggs, tofu, fish, and meats for really any meal. Stewed adzuki beans might be a nice side if you want to make a meal with beans. A nice bowl of rice and a little fruit make a lunch. Garnish the dish with peanuts, green onions, chilies, toasted nori strips, or, more of a nuclear condiment like chili oil. Yum. Enjoy!

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Black Trumpet and Crimini Mushroom Fried Rice

Ingredients:

• 1 1/2 C short grain brown rice
• 2 1/2 C water
• 1/4 Tsp sea salt
• 1/2 Oz. dried Black Trumpet mushrooms
• 1 C hot water
• 3 Tbsp unprocessed peanut oil (mine was toasted peanut oil)
• 1/4 Lb Crimini or white button mushrooms
• 1/3 C onion, small dice
• 1 Stalk celery, bias cut 1/4 inch
• 1 Tbsp minced ginger
• 1 Tbsp minced garlic
• * Optional: Sliced fresh chilies or dried chilies as desired

For The Sauce:

• 3 Tbsp fermented black soy beans, rinsed
• 2 Tbsp mirin
• 2 Tbsp reduced mushroom soaking liquid
• 1 Tbsp tamari (Tamari is gluten free but Shoyu or other traditionally brewed soy sauce can be used)

Optional Garnishes:

• Peanuts, scallions, chilies, toasted nori strips, or a dollop of chili oil

*NOTE: If you can make the rice a day ahead, that will speed up the cooking time the day you make the fried rice. It will also give it a more firm texture. Allow it to cool in the same way as indicated below and store it, covered, in the fridge overnight.

Using a small, heavy bottomed pot with a tight fitting lid (really important here), rinse the rice once and drain well. Add the water and salt and bring to a boil. Cover and bring the rice down to a steady but low simmer using your lowest burner. Cook the rice for 40 minutes, making sure that all the water is absorbed by this time. Turn off the heat and allow the rice to stand with the lid on for another 5 minutes. Remove the rice to a sheet pan and spread out evenly to cool completely.

While the rice is cooking, soak the dried mushrooms in 1 C water, hot to the touch. The mushrooms will soften completely in about 20-30 minutes. Remove the mushrooms and squeeze as much liquid back into the soaking water as you can. Slice the re-hydrated mushrooms into thin shreds and set aside. Now, gently pour the soaking liquid into a small pot, being careful to leave any sediment at the bottom of the soaking liquid behind. Reduce the soaking liquid to two Tbsp over medium heat.

Prep the crimini by rubbing off any growing medium and, depending on the size, either slicing them to about 1/4 inch while whole, or halving them first, then slicing from top to bottom. Prep the onion, celery, ginger, and garlic as indicated in the ingredients, and add sliced fresh chilies or dried chilies as desired.

In a large, non-stick saute pan or wok, heat the peanut oil over medium-high heat and add the mushrooms, tossing until the edges have browned. Maintaining medium-high to high heat, add the onion, celery, ginger, garlic and chilies if using, and toss for an additional 2 minutes, until the celery is just getting tender. Add the rice and toss until it is lightly coated in the oil, sizzling, and mixed with the veggies. When the rice is hot and well mixed, add the finishing sauce. Maintain medium-high to high heat and toss the sauce thoroughly with the rice until all liquid is absorbed and cooked off, and the rice is seasoned evenly.

Serve the rice hot with your choice of garnish or chili oil. The rice will be best within 5 to 7 days. Reheating in a non-stick pan over high heat again is recommended.

Yield: 6 portions, about 5 cups.

Poblano, Corn, Potato Chowder with Cilantro Oil and Crispy Tortilla

Even though temps are spiking in the 40's this weekend, which is crazy for Minnesota in January (there will be runners in shorts), I think everyone can appreciate a comforting bowl of soup this time of year. In this recipe, the smokey-spicy kick of chilies is rounded out by the down to earth heartiness of Yukon Gold potatoes and sweet corn, then brightened by fresh lime and cilantro oil. And, of course, nobody needs to make excuses for adding fried, sprouted corn tortillas on top. As my Macrobiotic cooking instructor and sea vegetable expert Jill Gusman said back in cooking school, much to our amusement, "Fried food is dynamic!". Yep, and really, really tasty. Let us be deliciously dynamic. 

I love ingredients. The potential. The colors, shapes, and smells. I feel inspired and connected to the earth when working with food. I like getting to know the idiosyncrasies of ingredients. Poblano peppers, for example, are a little hard to gauge as far as spiciness. Most fall into a category somewhere around a mild to medium jalapeno. Some hit the medium to hot jalapeno mark. Some are surprisingly mild, a let down when you are looking for a little heat in your recipe.

With this in mind, I suggest a few options for this recipe to suit the taste of the cook and his/her audience, and to solve the problem of the sometimes unpredictable poblano.

1) For the "non-chili heads": This group wants flavor but no heat, so a substitution of bell pepper, any color, and sweet smoked paprika in the spice blend will be perfect.

2) The "Two chillies on a scale of one to ten" crowd: This group wants a nice tingle, but doesn't want to feel challenged by chilies. The solution? Taste the poblanos before prepping, and if they are spicy enough, use sweet smoked paprika in the recipe. If they leave something to be desired, kick up the recipe with dried, ground chipotle pepper. A combination of both chipotle and smoked paprika is also an option. Note: There are both sweet smoked paprika and generically smoked paprika which can have a little heat.

3) The "chili-head" group: This group knows no bounds when it comes to Scoville units. So, even if the poblanos are on the nippy side, and chipotle pepper is used in the recipe, the soup comes out to be a totally tolerable medium spicy. A noticeable kick, but not enough to completely overpower the other flavors.

I personally recommend the group number two route. If the poblanos have a nice heat, use smoked paprika. If not, sub chipotle powder in the spice blend. Do what you feel. If you can't get your hands on poblanos and use bell peppers, compensate with chipotle.

Now that the poblanos have been assessed and a plan has been made, it's time to char those babies. I am going for layers of flavor with this soup. Multiple corn flavors and multiple smokey chili flavors. Charring is going to provide some of that and the smoked paprika/chipotle pepper will do the rest. Charring is easy if you have a gas range. Simply lay the washed and dried peppers down on the grate over the flame and turn them until they are well blackened on all sides. Quickly put them in an airtight container while still hot and allow them to steam about 5 minutes. Then, using a paper towel, remove as much char as comes off easily. Don't worry if a little remains. Now the peppers are ready to be prepped. Slice them, remove the seeds, and dice.

If you don't have a gas range there are two options. You can cut the peppers lengthwise, flatten them out and use a cast iron pan or griddle over medium-high heat to char the skin side. Place a weight (another heavy pan works well) over the peppers to keep them in contact with the pan firmly. Another option is to slice them in half, flatten them as much as you can, and place them under the broiler until much of the skin is blistered. Then follow the step above, though with this method, you may be able to peel the blistered layer more easily. However you char your peppers, don't forget to turn your vent fan on high! If the peppers are spicy you may want to evacuate any chili-sensitive individuals from the kitchen.

Your soup journey begins with sweating the aromatics, which is basically a low saute where nothing is browned. Then, the addition of chopped sprouted corn tortillas serves to help thicken the soup and add another layer of summery corn flavor. The other key to getting a nice "creamy", thick, chowder-like soup without dairy is to puree part of the soup solids and add them back. So, there are three thickening factors going on: the potato, the corn tortilla, and the blending technique. The recipe calls for 6 cups of stock or water, and I highly recommend using stock, home-made if possible. For a slightly thicker soup, reduce the liquid to 5 cups.

One critical cooking skill that should be practiced mindfully while making soups, stews, dressing, and sauces, is seasoning. I add two teaspoons of salt to the pot before simmering the soup to allow the potatoes to absorb salt while cooking, and this should be a moderate level for many tastes. Then I suggest 2 Tbsp of lime juice to finish. But, after the soup is done simmering, you want to perfect the seasoning to your taste, so try adding half the amount of lime juice first, then tasting. Add another teaspoon, then another. Maybe you find you need less or more lime to hit the sweet spot. Maybe you find that you want a little more salt. Tinker around until the salt and acid levels come together in just the right way for you. Try taking a moment to be aware of the confluence of the salt and the acid when finishing the soup in order to hone your skills.

Instead of chopping fresh cilantro into this soup, I decided on a rich, herbal burst of blended cilantro oil to finish the soup, along with the fried tortilla. I blanch the cilantro to help it stay green a little longer, though the color will dull after a few days. Use a mild, vegetal olive oil that is grassy or buttery tasting rather than a peppery and bold. This will help the cilantro stand out and not be overtaken by possible bitter notes in the oil. This nice pop of flavor stirred into the soup by the diner, and the fun crunchy element of the fried garnish complete the dish nicely. With the crunchy tortilla there is also a triple threat of maize going on too.

On that note, masa harina is also a great thickener when making chowders or soups with Southwest or Central American flair. Masa harina is the fine corn flour made from nixtamal, corn that has been processed with lime water (a solution of calcium hydroxide from the mineral lime, not the fruit), wood ash lye, or a combination of both. This process releases the amino acid niacin, increasing the nutrition in the corn and allowing it to form a complete protein when combined with beans. Hominy is also a nixtamalized corn. This process was, and is, a cornerstone of nutritional success for ancient and modern meso-American peoples, and continues on as an important foodway to this day.

I am going to plug my favorite tortillas for cooking with because ingredients and quality do matter and do equal flavor. I used a store brand for the recipe test, the store will remain anonymous, and well, they were like cardboard. So, I went back to pick up my long time favorite, Food For Life Organic Sprouted Corn Tortillas (I am not being paid to promote them, but damn they are tasty). They are worth it for this recipe. Sweet, nutty, and full of flavor. If you do try these, try making your own corn chips too. They are out of this world. In short, use the best tasting, freshest corn tortillas you can find and your taste buds will thank you.

In order to use as little oil as possible, I like to use my little tiny cast iron pan to fry things occasionally. I did the tortilla strips in three batches with about 1/2 inch of high heat oil. I had accidentally bought a jar of refined coconut oil instead of virgin and decided to keep it to use for frying. Then I made my son a few tortilla chips to take with his lunch and he was pleased. Feel free to make extra, these tend to get nibbled on by thieves passing through your kitchen! Enjoy the soup and stay warm.

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Poblano, Corn, Potato Chowder with Cilantro Oil and Crispy Tortilla

Ingredients:

For the soup:

• 2 Medium sized poblano peppers
• 1/3 C celery, medium dice
• 1/2 C onion, medium dice
• 1 1/2 C sweet corn, fresh or frozen
• 3 Medium cloves garlic, minced. Reserve a small amount of the mince for cilantro oil.
• 3 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 4, 6 Inch corn tortillas, cut to 1/2 inch squares
• 1 Bay leaf
• 1/8 Tsp chipotle powder or smoked paprika
• 1/4 Tsp ground cumin
• 1/2 Tsp ground coriander
• Pinch ground clove
• 2 Tsp sea salt
• 1 Lb Yukon Gold potatoes, medium dice
• 6 C stock or water
• 2 Tbsp lime juice (about one lime)

For the cilantro oil:

• 1/2 Bunch cilantro (from medium sized bunch)
• 1/2 C extra virgin olive oil
• 1/8 Tsp sea salt
• Pinch raw garlic
• 1 Tbsp lime juice (about 1/2 lime)

For the fried tortillas:

• 4 or more corn tortillas
• High heat oil
• Sea salt

Begin by charring the poblanos over the open flame of a gas range, or using one of the alternate methods described in the recipe overview above. When evenly charred, remove them from the flame and place in a tightly covered bowl or container to steam for five minutes. Rub the char off of the peppers with a paper towel. If a little clings on that's OK. Split the peppers open, remove the seeds, and medium dice.

In a soup pot, saute the pepper, celery, onion, corn, and garlic in three Tbsp extra virgin olive oil over medium-low heat, taking care not to brown the garlic, until the onions and celery are soft and translucent. This will take about 15 minutes. Add the tortillas, bay leaf, chipotle, cumin, coriander, clove and sea salt. Stir the seasonings and tortillas in well and add the potatoes and stock/water. Bring the pot to a boil and reduce to a simmer. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes. 

After simmering the soup, the potatoes should be tender. Remove 1 C of the solids from the soup and about 1/2 C liquid. Puree the mixture in a blender or processor until as smooth as possible and add this back to the pot. Season the soup with lime juice, tasting to see if the acid and salt levels work for you. Adjust as necessary.

For the cilantro oil, prepare a small pot of boiling water and a bowl of ice cold water. Wash the cilantro and trim any rough or thick ends from the bottom, leaving most of the stems. Blanch for 15 seconds in the boiling water. Remove the herb from the boiling water and shock in ice water until cold. Squeeze as much water from the cilantro as possible and combine in a processor or small blender with 1/2 C mild, buttery tasting extra virgin olive oil, 1/8 Tsp salt, a very small amount of raw garlic reserved from the soup prep, and 1 Tbsp lime juice. Take care with the amount of raw garlic, you can always add more so begin with a very conservative amount. Literally a few of the mince pieces or a tiny sliver is good to start. When the mixture is thoroughly blended, check for salt, garlic, and acid levels and adjust accordingly.

Prepare a small, heavy bottomed pan, such as a saute or thick sauce pan, with high heat oil about 1/2 inch thick. Have a plate with paper towels ready and sea salt for seasoning. Slice four or more six inch corn tortillas into thin strips about 1/8 inch thick. I sliced the tortillas into four lengthwise, then basically made a julienne/matchstick cut from the strips. Bring your oil up to temp, testing it as it heats by dropping a strip of tortilla in to see if it fries vigorously. When the oil is ready, fry the strips in batches until golden brown. You will notice that the tortillas start to sizzle less when they are done because the moisture has been evaporated. Remove them to the plate with paper towels to drain, and season them lightly with sea salt. 

Serve the soup hot with 1 to 2 Tsp cilantro oil, depending on taste and size of serving, and fried tortilla garnish. *Note: If you really like the tortilla garnish, go ahead and make more as suggested in the recipe and post above. Four tortillas will make a small garnish for 8 servings.

Yield: Six healthy portions. 8 light portions.

Sweet Sour Braised Cabbage with Dried Mushrooms

What are you having for dinner tonight? I bet you have some go-to meals that would pair nicely with this deep purple, earthy, phyto nutrient rich side dish. Sesame noodles and teriyaki salmon, Korean barbecue, barbecue tofu, stir fried rice with edamame, miso broiled eggplant and baked fish, simple chive omlette...all of these make for a perfect dinner. Hot or cold, sweet and sour cabbage is a beautiful and surprisingly light side dish that makes good use of a cool season staple.

 In the winter, we're not spending much time wandering wistfully through the farmers' market planning our menus around the abundance of spring, summer, or fall produce. We've got to stock some sturdier fellows in the old ice box, for when we get snowed-in (crosses fingers). Cabbage is great because it resides contentedly in the fridge for weeks making it an ideal veggie to have on hand for those nights when your crisper is looking a little bare. Oh, and by the way, ask the folks in produce to cut you a half a cabbage if the suckers are behemoth. It can be hard for anyone to get through one of the larger heads of cabbage at times, and I usually find the produce department most obliging.

In the spirit of bringing more pantry wisdom to my readers and clients, I have been playing around with some dried mushrooms as well. Dried mushrooms are an ingredient I encourage because they can be easily used in so many ways, adding umami, texture, and depth to many dishes. See my recipe for Caramelized Onion and Porcini Gravy from Thanksgiving.

Using mushrooms gives this braised cabbage a heartier feel than many versions of this dish. It has a subtle sweet/sour flavor. Mushrooms are meaty without meat. For those who eat meat, try searing a little sausage or crisping slices of thick cut bacon in the pan before adding the other ingredients and braising. My point is: Eat loads of braised purple cabbage! It's good. Create your own style.

I aim to help everyone develop a sense of comfort with basic cooking techniques, flavor combinations and ingredients. With this foundation, a sense of how to create endless variations on a dish follows. Getting beyond the proficient execution of recipes, and into the wild blue yonder is what gives a cook true freedom to play, and space to be creative. It also helps when you have 30 minutes to whip up a dinner from whatever random items you have on hand.

Some other variations you may want to make to this recipe include omitting the star anise, if you are not a fan, or omitting/changing the mushrooms. You may want to change the flavor profile by exchanging the ginger for more garlic, using balsamic vinegar and a bay leaf or sprigs of thyme. The sweetness of the mirin can be substituted by a little maple or sugar. Go nuts.

Umeboshi "vinegar" is fun to have on hand. I used quotes because it is not a true vinegar, but rather the brine left from pickling Japanese ume plums. The pink color, and additional flavor come from the shiso leaves used when pickling the plums. This condiment has a bright, salty, fruity-tart flavor unlike anything else, and it is amazingly delicious. I always have a bottle on hand for sprinkling on rice, making beet, radish, or cucumber pickles, making dressings and sauces among other things. It is a truly excellent condiment for vegetables.

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Sweet Sour Braised Cabbage with Dried Mushrooms

Ingredients:

• 1/2 Oz paddy straw mushrooms
• 1/2 C hot water
• 3 C sliced red cabbage, 1/4 inch thick
• 1 C sliced onion, 1/4 inch thick
• 1 Medium clove garlic, sliced
• 1-2 Whole star anise
• 1/2 Inch ginger, julienne
• 1/4 C mirin
• 2 Tbsp rice vinegar
• 2 Tbsp umeboshi vinegar
• 1/4 Tsp toasted sesame oil to finish (optional)

Prep the mushrooms by soaking them in 1/2 C hot water for about 20 minutes. Squeeze the mushrooms and reserve the soaking liquid, pouring the liquid into another container and off of any grit that has settled to the bottom.

In a pan, pot, or dutch oven with a tight fitting lid, combine the cabbage, onion, garlic, star anise, ginger, mirin, rice vinegar, and umeboshi vinegar. Combine the mushroom soaking liquid plus additional water to total 2 C and add to the pan. Toss the ingredients, cover, and bring to a medium simmer. Maintain a simmer with the lid closed for 30 minutes. Check the water level after about 20 minutes to make sure too much isn't being lost to steam. The cabbage should be tender when done. Drizzle the sesame oil over the cooked cabbage before serving, or add about 4 drops to each serving individually.

Serve the cabbage hot or chilled.

Yield: 4-6 servings. The cabbage will keep for 1 week refrigerated.

Buckwheat Sunflower Seed Tea Biscuits

For fellow tea drinkers, whose days, like mine, are punctuated by a regular schedule of steaming, life-giving brew, this recipe might be of interest. There is something especially comforting about a hot cup of tea or coffee break where we can slow down, let our minds relax for a moment, and connect with our bodies and ourselves for a moment. A mindful and calming snack can be all that we need to take us through the morning or afternoon.

My husband is particularly fond of these cookies, though I call them biscuits because they really are like a shortbread or maybe a very sweet digestive cracker that goes well with tea. It also sounds cute! They taste, to quote my beloved cookie-critic, "like buckwheat pancakes with maple syrup but in cookie form". Extra nuttiness comes from the sunflower seeds, which go really nicely with buckwheat, and a buttery richness is supplied by virgin coconut oil. Virgin coconut oil is a must in many of my baked goods, cookies, and cakes, adding a simply incomparable burst of flavor.

Moderation, of course, is of the essence. I don't make baked sweets that often, but I have several excellent recipes in which I wouldn't substitute virgin coconut oil with anything else. My motto (a la Michael Pollan) is: Eat a balanced diet, eat loads of veggies, fruits and legumes, eat the grains that suit you, eat good quality meats and cheeses in moderation if you are omnivorous, use unprocessed oils as much as possible, and go for flavor when you have those little sweet bites! Never sacrifice flavor or you will feel deprived and unsatiated. Yes, you can have it all-In moderation that is!

This dough is a straight up, one bowl mixing affair. Bring the dough together with a spatula or large spoon, turn it out onto a floured surface, knead slightly with flour dusted hands, and that's it. The only trick to these cookies involves a quick trip to refrigerator. Since this dough is uber soft, it needs to be rolled on parchment, on the baking pan, then chilled in the fridge for about 10 minutes. Then it can be cut into crisp shapes which can be positioned on the pan.

It's always nice to have some fresh baked goods for those times when sweet friends or family are coming for a visit. Happily, this dough freezes well if you want to make a double batch and freeze half. When you want to use the dough, thaw it on the counter, roll it when it is soft, and continue with the recipe. When freezing the dough, it may be helpful if it is flattened to about an inch to allow it to thaw quickly and evenly.

Roll the soft dough to 1/4 inch thick on parchment and on the sheet pan, trim the edges (or not, for my type B friends), refrigerate, cut into desired shapes, space the cookies and bake! I chose an air pan, that is a pan that has two layers separated by an air space. I find this useful for more delicate, quick cooking thin cookies that could burn or brown too much on the bottom, but your favorite sheet pan will do. What to do with those little trimmed edges you ask? Well, you eat them as soon as they are cooled while you are putting away the cookies. This is a critical part of the process. 

There will only be minimal browning around the edges, and they will only ever-so slightly puff up, so these indicators are not good measures for when they are done. They will, however, begin to exude a toasty, sweet smell about two minutes before they are done. I would stick to the 14 minute time frame at 350. They bake fast and you don't want to over cook them. 

Allow the cookies to cool completely on the baking sheet before transferring them to a container. These are delicate little creatures, but so delicious. Did I mention they are gluten free? I guess you figured that out by now. Enjoy!

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Buckwheat Sunflower Seed Tea Biscuits

Ingredients:

• 1/3 C raw or toasted, unsalted sunflower seeds
• 1 C buckwheat flour plus extra for dusting
• 1/4 C maple syrup
• 1/2 C virgin coconut oil, soft
• 1/2 Tsp sea salt
• 1/4 Tsp vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. If using untoasted sunflower seeds, toast them in a dry pan over medium high heat, stirring frequently, until they are golden brown. Even if using toasted sunflower seeds, I like to toast them briefly until they are glossy and aromatic. Remove them from the pan and when they are cool, pulse them in a food processor to small, sand and pebble consistency, meaning some larger chunks will remain among the finer ground bits.

Combine the sunflower seeds, buckwheat flour, maple syrup, coconut oil, sea salt and vanilla extract in a mixing bowl and stir together until evenly mixed. This is a very thick and sticky dough and I would describe the mixing as more of a "squishing" together...use your hands too, they work well in this case.

Flour a work surface with a little extra buckwheat flour and turn the dough out, kneading and shaping just enough to make a smooth ball. Transfer the dough to a lightly dusted parchment on a sheet pan and roll to 1/4 inch thickness. Dust your rolling pin too in order to reduce sticking. Cover the dough with parchment or plastic and refrigerate for 10 minutes.

When the dough is chilled, trim the edges and cut the dough in to desired shapes. I keep the cookies no larger than 1 inch wide and maybe 2 inches long because they are very delicate and break easily when handled if they are larger. Bake for 14 minutes and allow them to cool completely on the sheet pan. Remove to a an airtight container. Don't forget to eat the little trimmings!

The cookies will keep for several weeks in an airtight container.

Yield: Approx. 24-26 one inch cookies, depending on the shape.

Green Light Cocoa

We have a chart on our refrigerator. It has become indispensable. It is called the "Green Light, Yellow Light, Red Light" chart. In the lead up to Halloween my son had a revelation after a few meltdowns related to the desire for sugar. He said sweetly "Mom, I think sugar is controlling my brain!". And with that realization came the chart. It's not just for him...my name is on it too. It is a list of snacks and special foods that we use to give boundaries to our sugar intake. The category each food item falls into, based on the amount of sugar, salt and general nutritive value, determines how many times per week it is allowed. Red light foods: twice weekly. Yellow light foods: three times weekly. Green light foods: unlimited with an eye on balance, for instance, we can't eat peanut butter toast for breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

This simple chart has worked wonders and has pushed me to create more "Green Light" versions of otherwise "Red Light" or "Yellow Light" foods. One of these creations is the Green Light Cocoa. I had just picked up a couple sleds from the neighborhood hardware store and we were determined to go sledding after school. It was getting colder that afternoon but that was not going to stop us, and it was my son's first sledding experience. Cocoa was in order.

There will definitely be exceptions to our chart over the following two weeks, but that will be the exception and the rule of law remains our Red Light, Yellow Light, Green Light chart. I want to rejoice in an abundance of good health through the holidays and into the new year!

Dates take the place of the sugar in this cocoa, and as long as you don't drink 8 cups of it, I think it fits just fine into the green light category. Whereas sugar has nothing but, well, sugar molecules, dates have fiber, manganese, magnesium, potassium, calcium, vitamins and sugars too. Why have empty calories when you can have all those little vitamins and minerals, fiber, and more complex flavor than just the flat sweetness of sugar. 

Another key benefit of using dates is the thick, more true hot chocolate texture that results rather than the thinner consistency you get when sweetening with sugar. This is the perfect, rich and satisfying post cold-weather activity snack, and it is heartily approved of by my family. 

If you want to think ahead, soak the dates before you head out into the cold so they will be nice and soft and ready to blend as soon as you get home. Otherwise, it really only takes 10 minutes for them to soften in the hot milk. Straining removes the little bits of date skin that may not get blended completely to ensure a creamy smooth cocoa.

Now get out there and experience the season knowing you have a nice hot cup of cocoa to come home to! Enjoy!

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Green Light Cocoa

Ingredients:

• 1 3/4 C Almond milk (or preferred milk)
• 4 Medjool dates
• 4 Tsp Cocoa powder
• 2 Pinches cinnamon, to taste

In a small pan, heat the milk quite hot but do not boil. Pit the dates and soak them in the milk with the cocoa powder and cinnamon for 10 minutes. Blend the mixture until very smooth. Using a fine mesh strainer, strain the liquid back into the pan and warm it to your liking. Garnish with cinnamon sticks. Enjoy!

Yield: Two servings

Smoked Fish, Quinoa, and Apple Salad with Toasted Pepitas and Coriander Seed

I so needed this salad right now. Seriously. For a person who spends a fair amount of time looking at food related media it is a foil to the delicious but mind numbing amount of recipes for sweet holiday treats. Maybe some of you are feeling the overload before it even happens too. My answer to this is to stay balanced with foods that make your body say yes in a good way, foods that hit all your senses with balanced flavor and make you feel nourished.

The little twist in this ever-so-satisfying salad is the addition of whole, toasted coriander seeds. I was having a somewhat tossed together dinner, you know that "what have I got in my fridge?" kind of salad, and I had my little mortar and pestle in front of me filled with whole coriander seeds from a recipe test the same day. I reached out and decided to sprinkle a few on my salad and pow! Jackpot. The coriander seed compliments the apple and smoked fish superbly with a surprising, aromatic and slightly sweet crunch. Everything just worked so well in this salad that I fell in love with the combo and wrote it down immediately.

I had some really hearty hot smoked Superior lake trout in the fridge, so that got tossed in, but hot smoked salmon, trout, mackerel, whitefish or even a very firm salmon candy sliced very thin would be delicious in this salad. You really just want to make sure the fish is smoky, somewhat firm, and flaky.

I hardly ever have a salad without toasted seeds or nuts, and pepitas are super irresistible when simply toasted in a hot pan. Keep them on hand in your pantry and with a quick trip in a hot, dry pan you can have a sense pleasing snack or meal component full of healthy fats and toasty flavor. Toasting spices also elevates their flavor, so get those coriander seeds in the pan next and toast just until they are aromatic. Add the coriander seeds after tossing the salad to keep the seeds as crunchy as possible. The bites of the seeds you get here and there are a delicious little surprise.

The great thing about quinoa is that it is such a workhorse! It's almost impossible to cook a small enough amount of quinoa for just this one salad, so go ahead and cook a cup of grain (rinsed in a couple of changes of water) with 1.5 C water and a pinch of salt. Bring it to a boil, cover tightly, simmer on low for 15 minutes. Turn off the heat and allow the grain to steam with the cover on for 5 more minutes. I really like to use as little water as possible when cooking quinoa, and this works best if you have a small, heavy bottomed pan with a tight fitting lid. Make sure you can truly get a low flame/heat so that it just simmers. If the water cooks off too fast the grain will burn before it is done cooking or just end up under cooked. If there is too much water it will end up mushy.

When the grain is done, fluff it up and let it cool before using it in the salad. Enjoy the rest of your quinoa in soups or salads, tossed with vegetables of all stripes, scrambled with eggs, topped with tomato sauce and cheese, in a gratin, dressed with fresh herbs, nuts, or seeds, in a quesadilla, or hot with milk, honey, and fresh ground flax seed for breakfast. Quinoa is pretty much whatever you want it to be.

A single recipe is great as a meal sized salad for lunch or dinner. Divided, it is a perfect match for a half sandwich, cup of soup, or cheese and crackers, making a lunch for two. It's not bad with a glass of Chardonnay either! Enjoy!

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Smoked Fish, Quinoa, and Apple Salad with Toasted Pepitas and Coriander Seed

Ingredients:

• 3/4 C cooked quinoa, cold (see above)
• 1/2 C hot smoked fish, flaked
• 1/2 small crisp apple
• 4-6 leaves Romain lettuce, depending on size
• 1/2 C cilantro, roughly chopped
• Thinly sliced onion to taste
• 2 Tbsp raw pepitas
• 1 Tsp coriander seeds

Dressing:

• 1 Tbsp plus 1 Tsp extra virgin olive oil
• 1 Tbsp plus 2 Tsp lime juice, about juice of one half of a plump lime
• 1 1/2 Tsp maple syrup
• 1/4 Tsp Dijon style mustard
• 1/2 Small clove garlic, grated or finely minced
• Pinch of sea salt
• Pepper to taste

Choose a salad bowl big enough for one large serving. Prep the salad on a large cutting board simply lining up each ingredient as you prep it. The salad dressing will be made in the serving bowl and the salad ingredients added to it.

Cook the quinoa as instructed above and allow to cool. Reserve 3/4 C for the salad. Flake the fish into about 3/4 inch pieces and remove any bones. Likewise, slice the apple into thin pieces about 3/4 inch pieces. Roughly chop the Romain in 3/4 inch ribbons lengthwise and cut up the middle if the pieces are particularly big. The goal is to keep the parts of the salad relatively the same size. Slice a little onion to taste. Coarsely chop the cilantro.

Next, toast the pumpkin seeds in a small, dry pan over medium heat until they brown and are audibly popping. Remove from the pan and now toast the coriander seeds until they become aromatic. Remove them from the pan.

In the salad bowl you have chosen, mix the olive oil, lime juice, maple syrup, mustard, garlic, sea salt, and pepper with a whisk until emulsified. Now add add salad ingredients except the coriander seed to the bowl and toss well. Top with the toasted coriander seed and serve immediately. Split into two portions if desired.

Enjoy!

Yield: One large lunch or dinner salad or two side salads.

Sweet Brown Rice and Persimmon Pudding

Happy December! I hope there was plenty of joy and gratitude at your Thanksgiving gathering. As we slide into December and all that is brings to our plates and tables to share, I find my sweet tooth going into overdrive while at the same time craving simplicity and whole, nourishing foods. I cooked a little brown rice last weekend and my body let me know in no uncertain terms that this was something it needed. I am still pining for a little bite of something sweet during the day but I want to avoid burning out on too many empty calories so I can enjoy holiday treats and cookie making as something special.

One thing I like to do is continually bring seasonal fruit into the house. Putting fruit out during dinner is an even better practice and balances the meal with wholesome sweetness. Lately persimmons have been calling to me from their little corner of the produce section. Shocking orange, pretty little jewels. Thus the marriage of persimmon and sweet brown rice was made. In the spirit of full disclosure I have to admit I've been eating this for breakfast. Yup.

Varieties of persimmon are native to both parts of Asia and North America. Once, while hiking in Virginia near Great Falls, I was surprised by a tree with funny, small light-orange fruit. When I investigated, I found that it was clearly a persimmon. I learned that day that persimmons are among the native foods of the southern states. The persimmons we have available in stores in the U.S. are Asian varieties that have been cultivated and improved by the Japanese. I found Fuyu, a smaller squat variety, and Hachiya, a slightly heart shaped variety about the size of a peach. I decided on the Hachiya as I am more familiar with this variety and it's taste and texture when ripe. It may seem odd, but this variety is fully ripe when it feels nearly liquid inside it's skin. When it is cut, peeled and roughly chopped, the consistency is exactly that of a soft fruit jam as you can see in the picture above.

Different varieties of persimmons have different characteristics that you need to be aware of in order to know when they are ripe.  Some are unpleasantly astringent when they are not ripe. Hachiya are like this, but Fuyu are ripe when still firm. Follow the link below for a little info on four common varieties or simply search a particular variety online that your grocer carries to make sure you are choosing the right one at the correct ripeness.

http://www.shockinglydelicious.com/introducing-4-persimmon-varieties/

When looking for sweet brown rice, you will find that it is also called "glutinous brown rice". This in no way, shape, or form means that this type of rice has GLUTEN in it. Gluten is a protein only found in grains belonging to the wheat family. All of my GF friends can breathe easy and enjoy this wonderful grain. The term "glutinous rice" refers to the fact that this type of rice is sticky and is therefore also called sticky rice.  Sticky rice is often found in Thai restaurants in it's white, milled form. So, technically the rice I am using here can also be referred to as "sticky brown rice". When shopping though, ask for "sweet brown rice" or "glutinous brown rice".

I much prefer brown sticky rice to white because of it's hearty, chewy texture and sweet nutty flavor. Enjoy this rice with thick curries, as a side to broth based soups, or as rice balls rolled in toasted sesame seeds.

With your sweet brown rice in hand, some good local honey, coconut milk, ripe persimmon, and a pinch of cardamom, this recipe comes together easily. The process is nothing more than cooking the rice, mixing in honey, coconut milk, and persimmon, and then cooking this down to  the desired consistency. Notice in the recipe that I cook the rice at a less than 1:2 ratio. I prefer the pudding to be a little more on the firm side. When the honey, coconut milk and especially the amount of persimmon is added, the rice becomes quite loose before it is cooked down. If the brown rice is initially cooked over low flame with a tight fitting lid and allowed to steam about 10 minutes after removed from the heat it will be cooked perfectly for a chewy, soft, but not mushy pudding. If you prefer to add a little more water to the cooking of the brown rice, please do, but do not exceed the 1:2 ratio of rice to water as your pudding may be soupy.

The rice will be quite firm after refrigeration so be sure to warm the pudding before serving again. Enjoy!

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Sweet Brown Rice and Persimmon Pudding

Ingredients:

• 1 C sweet brown rice
• 1 3/4 C water
• 1/8 Tsp sea salt
• 2 Hachiya persimmons, ripe
• 1, 14 Oz can coconut milk, thoroughly mixed if separated
• 2 Tbsp honey
• Ground cardamom (optional)

Combine the rice, water, and salt in a small, heavy bottomed pot with a tight fitting lid. Bring to a boil and reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, for 40 minutes. Turn off the heat and allow the rice to stand 10 minutes covered.

Peel the persimmons and reserve 6 small slices to use as garnish before roughly chopping the rest of the flesh. The chopped flesh should measure plus or minus 3/4 C. You may also choose to use the peel, chopped fine, in the pudding, or use thin strips of the peel as garnish. I simply ate the peels as I cooked!

Combine the chopped persimmon, 1/4 C of the coconut milk, and honey in the pot with the cooked rice. Mix thoroughly and cook the pudding down over medium-low heat for about 10 minutes or until it has thickened. If you like your pudding a little more loose, cook just until you reach your desired consistency. Remove the pudding from the heat and allow it to cool slightly before dishing it up. I find it is best warm, not hot.

Make sure the remaining coconut milk is at room temperature and drizzle each serving with the milk, or serve each portion over a pool coconut milk. Garnish with the reserved persimmon meat or thinly sliced peel (or both!). Finish with a pinch of ground cardamom per serving. Enjoy!

Yield: approximately 2 1/2 C. or six servings.

Caramelized Onion, Crimini, and Porcini Gravy

Ah, gravy. It's even a metaphor for the good things in life. A savory sauce to accompany a feast or bring together a Tuesday night dinner. This elegant mushroom gravy will be at home on any table, elevating even the most humble foods.

I do have to admit, I am a serious mushroom enthusiast. I was thinking the other day about what I would call my (purely hypothetical) all mushroom cookbook. I am charged with one side dish for the Thanksgiving table this year, but I am in fact bringing this mushroom gravy, both whole and pureed, a mushroom and wild rice side dish, and I even thought of bringing a mushroom appetizer but I think I will exercise at least a modicum of self control.

I think this gravy will be a hit with both the turkey gravy crowd and the non-turkey gravy crowd, and I am hoping, with one individual who explained to me that he/she (who will remain anonymous) DOES NOT LIKE GRAVY. Yes, you read that right. I aim to change that.

This recipe gets massive flavor and soft, silky texture from heaps of caramelized onion as well as a subtle hit of ultra earthy umami from dried porcini mushrooms. Dried porcini are a powerful and effortless ingredient that can add an undeniable "wow" factor to many dishes. I just used them in a quick mushroom barley soup along with button mushrooms for an added depth that the button or crimini mushrooms cannot provide themselves. They are easy to use and the flavor cannot be matched. A small amount goes a long way. When it comes to caramelized onions, yes, they are worth the time and effort. Give this gravy a try and revisit it throughout the winter months for all your gravy needs.

The prep for the gravy takes long enough that making a fresh vegetable stock during the process just makes sense. I like to add kombu to my stock, which you see above as the dark rectangular pieces. I keep a package of dried kombu sea vegetable in my cupboard and toss a few pieces into most stocks I make. Having kombu on hand also means you can make a dashi broth for miso soup or Japanese sauces any time. Adding layers of flavors and minerals never hurts and a fresh stock gives a nice, clean flavor base to the gravy. It is as easy as chopping some veg, tossing them in a pot, and simmering for 40 min.

Caramelizing the onions takes about an hour, so start that as soon as the stock is on. Thyme shows up twice, both in the stock and in the finished gravy, completing a classic and comforting flavor combination of mushrooms and thyme. I used crimini as the second mushroom, which are also sold as "Baby Bella", but you may use button mushrooms or really any other fresh but firm mushrooms like shiitake, oyster, or chanterelle if you really want to indulge your mushroom passions. If you use anything other than crimini or button mushrooms, I personally would not blend the sauce, and I would make sure to slice them in a way that highlights their individual shapes.

Get comfy in your kitchen, turn on some music, maybe grab a glass of wine and settle in to caramelize the onions while you prep everything else. Caramelizing onions is less a matter of skill and more a matter of time. Grab a large, heavy bottomed pot or pan. Get those onions sliced thinly, about 1/8th inch, and toss them in with a little olive oil over medium high heat to begin.

First the onions need to sweat, so get them hot without browning them and then reduce the pan to medium. Stir them often until they are really releasing liquid and steam. If at any time the onions start to brown, turn down the heat a little. When the onions have softened, turn the heat down even further to medium low and eventually low. As the onions lose their water the temperature must be reduced. Keep stirring and observing the onions during the process. Depending on your range, you will most likely end up with the pan nearly or fully at the lowest heat for a majority of the process.

If you are still having an issue with the lowest heat being too high and you are using a heavy bottomed pot/pan and stirring fairly frequently, you may need to get creative. With an electric range you may need to babysit the onions a little more, removing the pan from the heat or turning it off from time to time. Use a flame tamer if you have one and are using a gas range.

By the end, there should be a little caramelized brown layer here and there on the bottom of the pan and the onions will have reduced drastically into a soft, golden mound. Take the onions off the heat and scrape all that flavor off of the bottom of the pan and into the onions. Congrats on your beautifully caramelized onions!

These magical little dried porcini mushrooms (above) are miraculous. How they have so much flavor packed into their little crinkled selves is beyond me. Amazingly, they create liquid gold when re-hydrated and this soaking liquid is as valuable as the mushrooms themselves. I bought a 1 oz package for $7. In the gravy I used 1/3 of that (including the soaking liquid of course!). Porcini can be overpowering depending on your taste, but if you would like a more intense flavor in your gravy I highly recommend increasing the porcini to 1/2 oz.

In order for the crimini mushrooms (above) not to release liquid into the gravy and thin it, they have to be sauteed until they stop releasing moisture. When mushrooms have reached this point, they have been cooked "au sec"...until dry. They will be nicely browned, which will also add flavor to your gravy.

When you have brought everything together in one pan and have let them mingle for a few minutes, slowly whisk in your slurry of cornstarch and water while simmering the sauce. Season with salt and balsamic vinegar.

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Caramelized Onion, Crimini, and Porcini Gravy

Ingredients:

For the Stock:

• 3-4 Celery stalks
• 1 Medium sized carrot
• 1/2 Large onion
• 2, 2x3 Inch pieces kombu (approx.)
• 6 Sprigs fresh thyme, or more
• 3 Large cloves garlic
• 6 C water

For the Gravy:

• 3 Medium sized sweet, brown or yellow onions
• 2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil, divided
• 1/3 Oz dried porcini
• 1/2 C hot water
• 1/2 Lb crimini mushrooms
• 1 Medium clove garlic
• 2 Tbsp mirin
• 5 C vegetable broth (see above)
• 1 Tbsp fresh thyme leaves
• 1 1/2 Tsp sea salt
• 4 Tbsp cornstarch
• 1/4 C cold water
• 1/2-1 Tsp balsamic vinegar

To make the stock, begin by rinsing the celery and lightly scrubbing the carrot to remove any loose dirt. Chop them in 1/4 inch thick pieces. Cut the onion in half, remove just the roots at the bottom, and slice it with the skin on into 1/4 inch pieces. Smash and roughly chop the garlic, skin on. Place the celery, carrot, onion, garlic, kombu and thyme in a lidded pot with 7 C water. Bring the stock to a boil, loosely cover the pot to avoid boiling over, and maintain a medium simmer for 40 minutes. When the stock is finished, strain it and measure 5 cups for the recipe. Save any extra in the refrigerator or freezer.

Once the stock is started, peel and halve the three sweet onions from top to bottom. Lay them flat and slice them again through their middle. Now cut 1/8 inch slices lengthwise from the sides toward the center creating thin pieces roughly 1 to 1 1/2 inches long. If your onions are squat, skip cutting them through the middle first. The idea is to avoid extra long stringy onions. 1 to 1 1/2 inch long slices do nicely.

Before starting to caramelize the onions, place the dried porcini in a small bowl with 1/2 C hot water to soften. This will take about 30 minutes.

In a large, heavy bottomed pot or pan, begin to cook the onions over medium high heat with 1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil. Stir them frequently until they begin to sweat. When the onions have softened significantly, reduce the heat to medium and continue to stir frequently. As the onions lose moisture, reduce the heat until the onions can be stirred occasionally without browning at all. If at any point your onions start to brown, as opposed to softening an turning a golden color, reduce the heat. For the majority of the time the onions will be cooking at a very low heat. This will take about an hour. When the onions are done, they will be very soft, greatly reduced in volume, and will have a golden color. Turn off the heat and scrape everything from the bottom of the pan into the onions.

While the onions are cooking, prepare the mushrooms. Brush any growing medium off of the crimini, or wash them if you like, and cut them from top to bottom. Cut each side once more from side to side through the cap. Now slice the mushrooms very thin, about 1/8th inch. When  the crimini have softened, squeeze out any liquid and slice them paper thin. Reserve the cooking liquid but when you add it to the gravy be aware of any grit at the bottom and simply pour the liquid off of the top to leave sediment at the bottom of the bowl.

Combine the sliced porcini and crimini with 1 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil in a saute pan over medium high heat. When the crimini have lost much of their water you may reduce the heat slightly. Continue sauteing until they have browned considerably. Grate the garlic into the pan and stir well to cook the garlic. Add the mirin to the pan and cook it off briefly. Now add the onions, porcini soaking liquid, vegetable stock, fresh thyme, and sea salt. Allow the combined elements to simmer for about 5 minutes.

When the mixture has simmered for 5 minutes, mix the cornstarch and cold water to form a slurry. Pour the slurry into the simmering gravy slowly while whisking to mix evenly. When the mixture is thickened, season with 1/2 to 1 Tsp balsamic vinegar. If the result is too thick or too thin for your taste simply add a little more stock/water or make a small additional amount of cornstarch slurry and add until you reach the desired consistency.

Yield: approximately 8 servings

Cranberry Cherry Sauce with Juniper Berries

Cranberry sauce has a special status in my holiday menu. All the other items on the Thanksgiving table, be it turkey/Tofurkey, gravy, stuffing, sweet potatoes, mushrooms, green beans, cornbread, greens or macaroni and cheese...are nothing without cranberry sauce. Nothing. To me it is the one dish that unites all others. There are no other tart and bitter flavors (except maybe greens) in the traditional Thanksgiving feast and so it provides the crucial balance to all the savory, sweet, and salty that is going on.

I am no purist when it comes to cranberry sauce. I can enjoy orange, cinnamon, nutmeg, mace, clove, allspice, pepper, chilies, onions, apples, raisins, figs, nuts, and the kitchen sink in there, but...my instinct is to keep it simple. With just five ingredients, this cranberry sauce could not be more straight forward. The intrigue comes from the one ingredient that adds a distinctly outdoorsy, seasonal, new yet compatible flavor to your holiday meals: Juniper Berries.

Let's talk about those Juniper Berries for a minute. There are many species of Juniper, but only one, common juniper, is used for culinary purposes. Gin would be the comestible in which most people have experienced the flavor of juniper berries. It has a wonderful piney flavor that is full of potential for the curious cook. I made a Meyer lemon, juniper and sage wine cocktail a few years ago and have wanted to do more with juniper ever since. Recipes for game with juniper sauce are common and often include cherries so I was inspired. I felt the mix of cherries and cranberries could help add sweetness without quite as much sugar as sometimes gets tossed in to a cranberry sauce. White wine also adds another subtle layer and a little more sugar depending on the sweetness of the wine you use.

This recipe is really flexible as well. Fresh or frozen fruit will work. Dried cherries, maybe 1/2 C instead of a full C of fresh/frozen, would work nicely if they are soaked overnight in the wine plus extra water to cover. Then use all of the soaking liquid in the cooking and just cook it down a little longer to get your desired consistency.

In order for the juniper berries to release more of their flavor, they need to be crushed. Just pound them until they are split open and somewhat broken. Give them a smell in the process. Wonderful!

In this recipe I leave the juniper berries right in with the cranberries and cherries. This way there is an unmistakable bite of juniper here and there. It's rustic if you want to call it that, but that is the way I like it. Another alternative for folks not wanting to bite into the berries is as follows: Increase the juniper to about 40 berries, crush them, and combine them with the wine in the pan. Bring it up to a simmer, turn off the heat and cover to steep the berries in the hot wine for about 10 minutes. Strain the berries out of the wine and add it back to the pan with the cranberry, cherry, and sugar and cook as directed.

If at any point during the cooking you feel the need for a little extra liquid, just add a tablespoon of wine or water at a time. Fresh or frozen fruit will release a little water of it's own when heated, so there should be enough liquid with 1/4 C wine, covering the pan to simmer, and cooking over a low heat.

Simple method: Combine, bring to a boil, simmer covered over low heat! This recipe also scales very easily so make as much as you need. Just add a little simmering time if necessary for the cranberries to pop, completely soften, and fall apart. Cranberry sauce is of course perfect for your Thanksgiving or holiday proteins (and everything else on the table) as well as sandwiches, cheese boards and fish. Enjoy!

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Cranberry Cherry Sauce with Juniper Berries

Ingredients:

• 30 dried juniper berries
• 1 C fresh or frozen cranberries
• 1 C fresh or frozen cherries
• 2 Tbsp sugar
• 1/4 C white wine

*NOTE: The measures for cranberry and cherries can be approximate. Let the berries and cherries heap over the top of the measure a little as they are bulky and hard to measure.

Crush the juniper berries with a mortar and pestle or with the back of a spoon until flattened and broken open. Combine the juniper, cranberries, cherries, sugar and wine in a small sauce pan, stir to combine, and bring everything to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover the pot, and simmer over low heat 8 to 10 minutes or until all the cranberries are popped and have fallen apart. As it is simmering stir a couple of times to check if the cranberries are done.

If you like a looser sauce remove it from the heat at this time. If you like a thicker sauce, cook it down with the lid off one or two more minutes until it reaches the desired consistency.

Yield: 1 C depending on your desired thickness

The sauce will keep for several weeks in the refrigerator and also freezes well.

Chipotle Apple Tempeh Hash

As winter approaches here in Minnesota, some would say that we are already experiencing winter weather. Sure, it's been below freezing a few nights. Sure, it has snowed twice. And yep, it feels cold. But, I am reminding myself that these very same temps will be a relief after we get through December, January, February, and March.

With this in mind, I am trying to lighten up my fall menus as long as I can before we delve into the deep freeze. The boatload of apples we picked at the apple orchard a few weeks ago, on a sunny, warm, golden day, have now worked their way into one galette, one monster pie, lots of apple cinnamon oatmeal, several cheese and cracker dinners, and a batch of apple-raspberry applesauce! This week's apple creation is a hard working Apple Tempeh Hash great  for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. 

This recipe has a double kick to it from the poblano pepper and the smokey chipotle pepper. If you want to tone it down you can substitute bell pepper for poblano, reduce/eliminate the chipotle pepper, or do both. I think the sweet and spicy work magic together when finished with the acid from the lime. Avocado needs no explanation, right? The tempeh is cooked in apple juice or apple cider which adds sweetness to its mellow flavor.

If you are not familiar with tempeh I highly recommend it as a versatile and nutritious vegetarian protein. Traditionally made in Indonesia where temperatures and humidity levels are perfect for tempeh production, soybeans are par-cooked and laid out in slabs about 3/4 to 1 inch thick. The beans are then inoculated with a fungus called Rhizopus oligosporus (don't get too freaked out...) and as it grows throughout the beans it produces the white binder you see holding the beans together. The now fermented beans are also broken down by the fungus in a way that helps make them more digestible. The result is a firm, nutty flavored bean cake with a pleasant texture.

1 C of apple juice or cider should be enough to cover the tempeh in a small sauce pan. If your juice doesn't quite cover the tempeh you can slice it thinner or simply turn it a few times while the juice is reducing. The tempe will be broken up in the end anyway so it just needs to be evenly cooked.

This recipe presents a good opportunity to practice knife skills. I call for a small dice for the apples, peppers, onions and sweet potatoes. I like about 1/4 inch dice (which I am calling small in the recipe) because this way it cooks up quickly and no one ingredient gets too mushy before the others are done cooking through. Perfection is not needed here just consistent size, and don't peel anything, just dice! A tip on dicing sweet potatoes is to start by slicing them into 1/4 inch rounds. Then lay the rounds flat either alone or stacked in two layers and cut 1/4 inch batons. Then cut 1/4 inch dice from the batons.

Use a firm eating apple as opposed to a baking apple so it won't fall apart. I used Keepsake apples but other good choices might be Honeycrisp, Fuji, Jazz, Braeburn, Gala, Cortland or many others. Also, make sure your pan is not too crowded or you will not get good browning. The picture above shows the space my dice had when I began. I used a nice big well seasoned cast iron pan for the hash.

When the apples, peppers, onions and sweet potatoes are browning nicely and the sweet potato is almost cooked through, the tempeh is added along with the spices for a few more minutes in the pan. Make sure you put your vent fan on high because the chipotle is going to spice things up in your kitchen for a while, possibly clearing your nasal passages in the process. When those sweet potatoes are just soft through and the tempeh has had a chance to brown a little, the hash is done. Add salt and pepper to your taste. Pair the hash up with avocado, lime and a hot cup of coffee.

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Chipotle Apple Tempeh Hash

Ingredients:

• 4 Oz Tempeh
• 1 C apple juice or cider
• 1 C apple, small dice
• 1/2 C poblano pepper, small dice
• 1/2 C sweet potato, small dice
• 1/2 C onion, small dice
• 2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 1/8 Tsp chipotle pepper, ground (smoked red jalapeno)
• 1/8 Tsp coriander, ground
• 1/8 Tsp cumin, ground
• 1/8 Tsp dried sage, ground
•  Pinch clove, ground
• Salt and pepper to your taste

Slice the tempeh into 1/2 inch thick strips and combine with the apple juice or cider in a small sauce or saute pan. Over medium heat, reduce the juice with the tempeh until it is completely absorbed. If the tempeh is not completely submerged to begin with, make sure to turn the pieces so they cook evenly on both sides. Use a spoon or fork to break up the pieces into roughly 1/2 inch chunks or smaller after cooking.

While the tempe is cooking, begin to dice the apple, poblano, sweet potato and onion and combine in a bowl. Measure the chipotle, coriander, cumin, dried sage and clove into a small dish. Keep an eye on the tempeh as it reduces. Heat a large skillet over medium to medium-high heat. When hot, add the olive oil and diced mixture to the pan and stir to distribute evenly. As you occasionally stir the mixture, modulate the heat so it remains fairly hot but doesn't begin to burn the dice or smoke the oil. Keep the dice spread out in the pan to help it brown.

When you see the mixture getting browned, test if the sweet potatoes are soft through. When they are done add the tempeh and the spice mixture to the pan. Reduce the heat initially as you add the spices to reduce irritation from the chipotle. Continue to stir until the tempeh is also beginning to brown. Remove the hash from the pan and season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve with avocado and lime wedges.

Yield: Two servings.

The hash will keep best for about three days in the refrigerator.

Jen's Sweet Potato Leek Soup with White Pepper and Garlic Oil

Here it is Jen! A little jazzed up. I hope you approve.

When I lived in Washington D.C., I had many cherished clients who I enjoyed cooking for immensely. In one of these homes there reigned a small fleet of outstanding nannies. Despite very low odds, two things happened to bring one of these amazing ladies, Jen,  back into my life a couple of years later. She met a great guy (yay!), moved down to Fort Worth and started a family, and my family moved first to Arizona, then to Dallas TX. What are the odds? Obviously greater than zero.

We were thrilled to be able to get our kids together regularly, who differ in age by two years but turned out to be great buddies. It was such a relief to me to have a ready-made friend for both myself and my son when we landed in Texas, which felt more than a little foreign to me. I had always wanted more time to hang out with this amazing woman who can tame a difficult phone representative with calm and reason no mere mortal poseses, stop a speeding sippy cup with lightening fast reflexes, and take huge leaps of faith in a single bound.

I was so honored to be able to bring a few requests for her fridge after she gave birth to her second adorable child. Potato leek soup was one request. I think I made it even better Jen! You let me know. For the rest of you. I think y'all will enjoy it.

Let's talk leeks. Leeks are beautiful, mild, cool-hearty onions that can grow to great heights. Those pictured above were two feet long, majestic vegetables. They are very economical as well at $3 for three mega-leeks at my farmers market. They can also be intimidating. Here is how to trim, wash, and use every last bit of these beautiful alliums (a.k.a members of the onion family).

First I would like to dispel any thoughts about only being able to use the whites of leeks or needing to toss out any part whatsoever. Let's start at the bottom. The little root part should be cut off, rinsed well to remove as much sand/dirt as you can and tossed in a bag for stock. The outer layers from the bottom of the light part to the top of the green part can all be used depending on the state they are in. Just as with other onions, there is often a leathery outer layer or layers. Peel back or clip away any layers and parts that feel leathery, dry or have browned parts on them. Wash these and also save for stock, with the exception of rotted parts.

Now you are left with the the parts fit for cooking. As the green parts often require longer cooking, especially the very tops, it is helpful to cut them very thin. You may do this and use them in the same recipe with the whites or wash them separately and use them in a different recipe. I used the whole darn leek here as even the green parts were fairly tender. I did, however, slice the green parts finer than the white. Depending on the recipe you are making, you may be instructed to only use the white. If the recipe is blended or you want to try including the greens by cutting them very thin to help their softening, try it out! This works very well for leek tarts or galettes for example.

Next for the washing and prepping. In this recipe you will cut the leeks into half moon shapes by slicing them in half top to bottom then cutting them evenly across the width. This produces pieces that come apart, allowing sand and dirt to fall away in the washing process. The washing method is simple. In the sink, place the cut leeks in a large bowl, making sure that the bowl is big enough to allow the leeks to float a bit when filled with water. Have a second bowl of equal size next to it. Fill the leek bowl with water and gently shake the leeks and massage them to make the layers come apart as best you can. When you have gone through that first bowl, scoop the leeks out of the water, allowing them to drain, and place them a handful at a time in the second bowl. When the second bowl is full, fill it with water and repeat. Do this until the water at the bottom of the bowl is clean and free of sand. Usually this takes three or four washes, but do it as many times as it takes. When they are clean, drain them of excess water.

There is no downside to cleaning too many leeks. If you are going to go to the trouble of doing it, make extra and use them later in the week.

The bulk of the leeks in this soup gives it a lighter body than many fall and winter stews and soups. The addition of poached garlic and its resulting oil as a finishing flavor adds a sweet, rich garlic note that will win points with garlic lovers as well. Poaching garlic is something everyone should do on a regular basis. It is so easy and the golden, butter-soft cloves and flavor packed garlic steeped oil are items that have many uses.

A small, heavy bottomed sauce or cast iron pan are perfect for oil poaching. If you don't have a pan 6 inches in diameter or less, search a few second hand stores and garage sales or put some feelers out for anybody looking to lighten up their kitchen. Grandma's are a good source of cast iron pans! Try to use large cloves of a similar size or cut them to match. Larger pieces are ideal because they don't brown as quickly. Use plenty of extra virgin olive oil to ensure the garlic is submerged. I poach 8 or 10 large cloves at the very least, and 1/2 C of oil at once. The lowest and slowest flame is best to get a soft buttery texture.

If you keep poached garlic on hand you can blend it into dips, spread or drizzle on bread or pasta, make vinaigrette, blend with nuts and herbs to make pesto, or blend the garlic and the oil together to make a smooth garlic puree. Your breath is going to be great.

You may substitute black pepper for white pepper in this recipe if you like, but I chose white peppercorns for their slightly milder and unique flavor. I temper them a little by adding them during the cooking process, but you may also grind the pepper into the soup at the end or even grind some fresh when adding the garlic oil. White peppercorns are simply black pepper with the outer layer removed. I also left my pepper ground slightly larger as I enjoy getting a nice peppery bite now and then. Grind finer if you prefer it more integrated.

When your onions are lovely, soft and melting, begin building the soup.

Reduce the wine, soften the leeks, add potatoes and liquid, blend and drizzle with garlic oil. Then sit and enjoy a hot bowl on a cold and windy day.

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Jen's Sweet Potato Leek Soup with White Pepper and Garlic Oil

Ingredients:

• 8 C leeks, half moon cut and cleaned
• 2 1/2 C sweet potato, medium dice
• 2 1/2 C yukon gold potato, medium dice (or any non-waxy, thin skinned yellow-white potato)
• 1/2 large white or brown onion, thinly sliced
• 8 large garlic cloves
• 1/2 C extra virgin olive oil (or more)
• 1/2 Tsp ground white pepper
• 1 Tsp Dijon mustard
• 1/2 C white wine
• 5 C water or stock
• 1 1/2 to 2 Tsp sea salt (to taste)
• 2 Tbsp sherry, rice, or white wine vinegar

*NOTE: I bought three very large leeks and cleaned them all. I had about 4 cups leftover for later in the week. They were 1 inch thick and about 2 feet long! Buy enough leeks so you are secure in having 8 cups. I recommend making the whole recipe as it freezes well.

Begin by washing the outside of the leeks, peeling off any leathery or dry layers, and cutting off any browned or degrading parts from the top. Remove the very bottom root part and slice the leeks in half from top to bottom. Lay the leek flat and cut 1/2 inch pieces of the lighter parts and thinner pieces as you move to the green parts. Go ahead and slice the green top very thin if you are concerned about it not softening enough. The soup will be blended anyway.

Wash and dice the potatoes by cutting them into 1/2 inch rounds and then 1/2 inch cubes approximately. Slice the onion in half and then slice it very thin any way you like. Peel 8 large cloves of garlic and place them in a small, heavy bottomed pan with the olive oil. Add more olive oil to cover the cloves or cut the cloves in half to make sure they are submerged. Heat the oil and garlic on the lowest setting, watching carefully that the cloves do not become too brown. If the garlic is cooking too fast, remove the pan from the heat periodically. When the cloves are a golden color and as soft as butter when poked with a paring knife, remove them from the oil to a small cup and remove the pan from the heat.

In a large soup pot, combine 3 Tbsp of the garlic oil with the sliced onion and saute over low to medium heat until the onion is completely soft and beginning to brown on the edges. Add the garlic, white pepper, and Dijon mustard to the pot and stir together. Add the white wine and allow it to reduce by half over medium heat. Now add the leeks and stir them occasionally until they are softened. Add the potatoes and stock or water and bring the pot up to a low boil. Reduce to a simmer and partly cover the pot.

Allow the potatoes to simmer until they are completely soft through. Remove the soup from the heat and blend with an immersion blender or in batches in a blender until smooth. The fiber from the leek tops may leave a slightly bumpy appearance in the soup but it will have an enjoyable texture. I advise including the tops for nutrition and fiber content.

Serve each portion with about 1 Tsp of garlic oil drizzled over it. Enjoy!

Yield: 9 C total/ 8 heaping 1 C servings.

Smashed Chickpeas and Spinach with Sesame, Allspice, and Fennel

Spinach is a go to veggie for me when I need a quick green for a meal and I am short on time. It cooks almost instantly and it's so easy to pick up in huge 16 oz container, washed and dried and ready to go. I was in need of a quick dinner this weekend and was also seriously craving sesame. I reached into my brain, and my spice drawers, and pulled together a combination of spices that would play nice with the sesame. Namely, fennel seed, ground allspice, and chili flakes.

The humble sesame seed has insinuated itself into cuisines all around the world. The seeds, the oil, toasted and untoasted, and the paste all have many delicious applications. Sesame crusted fish, crisp and savory stir-fried vegetables finished with toasted sesame oil, or halva, a favorite tahini-based confection of mine. Dang, now I want halva...sigh. The sweet, unique flavor of fennel seed is a favorite of mine as well as the slow kick of chili flakes, but I wanted a warm spice to add another prominent angle to the flavors of my impromptu spinach dish. Here is where that little jar of allspice that often sits forgotten in our spice collection comes in. 

Allspice has a strong earthy flavor that is deep and powerful like clove and cardamom, somewhat earthy-sweet like cinnamon and nutmeg, with a peppery aspect without the sharpness. That's my take on it. This complex but amiable flavor gives allspice the ability to meld into many world cuisines quite neatly. Try it in your next home made curry, in turmeric rice, in mashed or roasted sweet potatoes, in tropical marinades, Mexican mole, or let it stand alone in banana bread or other baked goods.

This dish is great by itself but it works well with a grain, flatbread or other carbohydrate. Bulgur wheat, pita, or cous-cous are good options. Double the coconut milk if you want it a little saucier. Now gather your ingredients!

Spinach and other voluminous greens are one of the reason I have a couple twelve inch saute pans, but you also need the space to ensure you don't crowd the chickpeas too much while frying them.

Prepare your spices and seeds! Toasting the sesame seeds is essential. It dramatically enhances the nuttiness factor. Be watchful because they will burn in an instant. You can grind the fennel seed to a rough or fine texture in a mortar or spice grinder or leave it whole if you like. The fennel seeds need not be toasted beforehand. Whole allspice berries look somewhat like large, smooth, brown peppercorns but they are quite hard. If you want to try to grind whole berries, you may want to use a mortar to grind them or make sure you have a very tough spice grinder. If you have that leftover ground allspice from your pumpkin pie, you are set. Dice up some garlic, grab some coconut milk and start with the chickpeas.

To get nice crispy fried chickpeas, make sure you drain them well, rinse them, and pat them very dry. When you have everything measured and ready to go, get out your largest saute pan, non-toxic nonstick if you have one, and fire it up to medium high. Add the olive oil and make sure it is hot by looking for a slight rippling on the surface then add those chickpeas! I used a potato masher to gently squish about half of the chickpeas halfway through frying. This is the time to get out your splatter guard if you have one. This process can spit oil a bit. Put your apron on too!!!

When done, move the chickpeas to a plate, remove the pan from the heat, and get the sesame oil, garlic, and spices in the pan. If you have some stuck on chickpea in your pan, gently scrape it clear in one small area to make room for the garlic and spices. Once you add the spinach and coconut milk it should loosen and incorporate into the dish with the help of a spoon or spatula.

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Smashed Chickpeas with Sesame, Allspice and Fennel

Ingredients:

• 2 Tbsp sesame seeds
• 15 oz can chickpeas
• 3 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 1 Tsp whole fennel seeds
• 1/4 Tsp ground allspice
• 1 Tsp chili flakes
• 1 large clove garlic
• 2 Tsp toasted sesame oil
• 8 oz baby spinach, completely dry
• 1/4 C coconut milk
• 1/8 Tsp sea salt

*Note: If using home cooked chickpeas make sure the chickpeas are not too soft. They must hold together for the frying process. If using a bunch of spinach, make sure to wash well and pat as dry as possible.

Heat a large, heavy bottomed saute pan over low to medium-low heat. Add the sesame seeds and stir frequently until they become glossy and about half begin to brown. Remove the sesame seeds from the pan and set aside. Drain, rinse and pat the chickpeas completely dry.

Now prepare the spices and garlic. Grind the fennel seeds in a mortar or in a spice grinder. You may prefer it fine, roughly ground, or even leave them whole. Smash and roughly mince the garlic. Combine the fennel, ground allspice, chili flakes and garlic in a small bowl. Measure the coconut milk and set aside. 

Heat the pan to medium high or high and add the olive oil. You may want to keep the heat lower if you are using a pan with a thinner bottom. When the olive oil is hot but not smoking, carefully add the chickpeas and begin frying them. Stir them only occasionally to allow them to brown and crisp. Smash about half with the back of a fork or a potato masher half way through frying them. 

When the chickpeas are nicely browned and crispy, remove them from the pan and remove it from the heat. Gently scrape any sticky chickpea bits and make a little room for the garlic and spices. Add the toasted sesame oil, garlic and spices in the cleared part of the pan and fry them together for about two minutes, returning to low heat if necessary. Return the pan to medium heat and add the spinach a handful at a time, stirring until it is just wilted. Stir the coconut milk into the spinach until you see it bubbling, then add the chickpeas and sesame seeds back to the pan, mixing completely. Serve hot and enjoy!